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PROYINCETOVN 



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R brief Historical Descriptior) cf PrcviqcetO"Wri, past ar\d 

present ; Old Records ; Lar\diqg of tl^e Pilgriir[S ; Loss of 

thie Eqglisti Frigate SoiT\erset ; tl^e Fire Departrqeqt ; J. 

C. Freerqari Post 55. G. R. R. ; Wl:|ales ar\a Whial- 

irig ; Codfisliirig : Public Buildir\gs ; R few 

Biograpt)ical SKetcties, ■WIt^^ Portraits; 

Ir\cider\ts, Hriecdotes, Stories of tl^e 

Place, Etc., Etc., Etc. 



OF CO. 



'^7 y 7 ^' 



Illustrated wliY) Tl^irty-Tl^ree £i;)gravir)gs. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, la the year 1890, hy Herman A. 
Jennings, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at 
Washington, J). C. 

Eni^raviiigK by the Boston Engraving t'o., 227 Treniont Street, Boston, 

Mass., from Photographs by George H. Nickerson, William M. Smith, 

and Irving Rosenthal, of Provinoetown. 



Y 

THIS BOOK WAS PKIMEIi BY . . . 

FRED. HALLETT 
* JOB PRINTER 

YARMOUTHPORX MASS. 



I carry a Full Lir\e of tl^e Latest aT\d Neatest 
Styles of Type, and car) furriisti Hriytl^ing 
yoii nqay need if] 



at Slnort Notice, and Guarantee Satisfaction 
in Every Particular. 



I MAKE A SPECIALTY OF BOOK AND JOB 

PRINTING AND ATTEND TO ALL 

ORDERS PERSONALLY. 



SAJVtPUES PI^OjVtPTUY S^JBJMJTTED, 

- YAF^jMOUT^POI^T 



PREFACE. 

Ill preparing this book for the public, I do not lay 
any claim to its being a work of literary merit, nor 
that it will fill a long-felt want in American litera- 
ture. The claim I make for it is full}^ explained in 
the title, — '' Odds and Ends from the Tip End." 
I am full}- aware of the fact that there is much of 
interest in this quaint, old town that I have not re- 
ferred to, but to describe everything would require 
years of labor and form a library of many vol- 
umes, — a task for an abler pen than mine. In the 
historical part I have endeavored to be as correct as 
possible, but wliere one has to depend so largely up- 
on tradition, errors will unavoidably creep in. The 
" Old Records " have been faithfully copied from 
the orignal books, and of them I can truthfully say, 
that they are verbatim copies. In "• Stories, Inci- 
dents and Anecdotes, " every one is true, with one 
exception, and that the reader must be very obtuse 
not to discern. Some of the Organizations which 
I have described I have submitted my manuscript 
to members of, who have corrected and approved it. 

And bere I wish to thank all those who have as- 



sisted me in obtaining facts and figures, the Board 
of Selectmen and Town Clerk, especially. 

To the critics, who will say this, that, or the otlier 
is wrong, I will say, skip those places and read only 
what is right, and be as lenient as possible with my 
failings. 

And now to the Provincetowner, here or abroad, 
and also the stranger that sojourneth with us for a 
season, I respectfully dedicate this little book, and 
hoping it will interest them and meet with their 
approval, I sign myself. 

Yours truly, 

Herman A. Jennings. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



PAGE. 

Visit of the Norsemen, _ _ - - 9 

Landing of the Pilgrims, - - - 15 

Histor\^ - - - - - - 19 

Old Records, ----- 27 

Schools, - - - - - - 41 

Fire Department, - - - - 44 

Rebellion of 1861-65, - - - - 52 

Wreck of the Somerset, - - - 70 

Long Point, - - - - - 76 

Whales and Whaling, - - - 80 

Codfishing, - - - - - 97 

Public Buildings, - - - - 105 

Biographical Sketches, - - - 120 

Industries, . - - - - 135 

Benefit and Church Societies, - - - 147 



Stories and Anecdotes, - - - 171 

Noteworthy Catches of Fish, - - - 193 

Table of Dates of Noted Events, - - 195 

Business Directory, - _ _ . 200 

Commercial Travellers, - - - 209 



VISIT OF THE NORSEMEN. 

That this continent was discovered, visited and a 
settlement made by Europeans, centuries before Co- 
lumbus and his contemporaries made their discoveries 
is a well authenticated matter of history. 

Old Norse records found in the archives at Co- 
penhagen, Runic Inscription, Icelandic Sagas, have 
all contributed to establish that fact, just as surely 
as the discovery of the Rosetta Stone, furnished the 
key by which Brugsch Bey and other Egyptologists, 
were enabled to decipher the hieroglyphics of an- 
cient Egypt, and give its history to the world, which 
for thousands of 3^ears had been a mystery. 

The hardy Norse Vikings pursuing their piratical 
voyages to Iceland and thence to Greenland, where 
a colony was established, gradually worked their 
way to the South and West and discovered the coast 
of what is now New England. "Leif, the Lucky," 
as he was afterward called, hearing of the newly 
discoverd country, found by Biarni in 989, resolved 
to plant a colony there. A ship was bought and 
with thirty-five men he set sail for the newly-discov- 
ered land. After making the land and coasting 



10 

along the shores, he with his litlle band passed up 
what is now called Seacoiinett River and planted 
their little Colony on the shores of Mount Hope 
Bay, near what is now Fall River. They named 
their little colony Liefs Budir. or Leifs Booths, (for 
they lived in booths or tents,) and the surrounding 
country, '' Vineland, the Good." In the spring of 
1001 with a cargo of grapes and timber they returned 
to the colony at Greenland and for his succes he re- 
ceived the title of '• The Lucky." The next year 
his younger brotlier Thorwald, with a company, 
sailed for the new country. Arriving at Liefsbudir, 
there spent the winter. The next spring (1003) he 
pursued his explorations still further to the South 
and West, it is supposed as far as the Carolinas, re- 
turned and wintered again at Liefsbudir. The fol- 
lowing spring (1004) he again started out and pur- 
suing his explorations to the North, in rounding 
Cape Cod, his vessel was stranded on the the ex- 
treme end of the Cape. Here he hauled his vessel 
ashore for repairs and to replace the keel which was 
broken ; he named the place Kilar Ness, or Keel 
Cape. After completing his repairs he sailed away 
to the North-west, and in a bay full of islands, per- 
sumed to be Boston Bay, was wounded in the side 
by an arrow in an encounter with the savages. 
Feeling that he had received his death wound, he 



11 

charged his followers to return home as quickly as 
they could. ''But me, you shall carry to the place 
where we repaired our ship, which I thought would 
be such a goodly place to dwell in, perhaps the words 
that fell from me there will prove true, and I shall 
indeed abide there for a season. There, bury me 
and place a cross at my head, another at my feet, 
and call the place Kross-a-Ness, or Cape of the 
Crosses." His instructions were earned out and 
here on the end of the Cape, where Provincetown 
now stands, his comrades laid away in mother earth, 
the body of that hardy old Norse Viking", Thorwald. 
The vessel returned to Leifsbudir, and the next 
spring with a cargo of dried grapes and other pro- 
ductions of the country, returned to Greenland. 
Several other voyages were made, but we mention 
only this, as having direct connection with this place. 
Chip Hill, so called, situated in the western part 
of the town, in the year 1805, was graded down 
some twenty-five feet, and levelled for the purpose 
of building Salt Works. The works occupied the 
place till 1853, when the business was abandoned 
and the land sold for building lots. While digging 
the cellar for the house now owned and occupied by 
Mr. Francis A. Paine, at the depth of five feet a 
wall of masonry was found about three feet in 
height and two feet wide at the base. These stones 
were nicely laid in shell-lime mortar, and after clear- 



12 




House owned by Francis A. Paine, situated on the old Norse Ruins, 

Chip Hill. 

ing off a space from the bottom of the wall, there 
was found a liard eartlieii floor composed of peat, 
clay and fine white sand, hammered and pounded to- 
gether, making a hard level floor. Upon dig- 
ging furtlier, tliere was found tlie remains of a 
flrephice, where tlie stones of wliich it was made, 
were partially calcined by tlie fire ; near by was a 
small collection of partially decomposed l)ones most- 
ly of sea fowl. It is a pity that further excavations 
were not made at that time and the whole matter 
brought to light, as things of great interst to estab- 
lish facts in liistorv mio;ht have been found, butonlv 
enough work was done to make room for the cellar 



13 
under the porch. The stoues of which this wall is 
made were evidently Ijroiight from some foreign 
country, as none are to be found on the Cape, nor in 
any place in this country. There are a few that 
closely resemble them, found on the Hudson River, 
near Rondout, and that is the only place known 
where there is even a resemblance. The theory has 
been advanced by scientific men that this was the 
camping-place of Old Thorwald and his crew, while 
repairing his ship, and it seems with a great deal 
plausibility. The stones were probabl}^ the ballast 
taken from the ship to enable them to draw her fur- 
ther up the shore, and were built up in this manner 
as a kind of fort or defence against the savages, 
covered over with the vessel's sails to protect the 
crew from the weather, and when the vessel was re- 
paired the sails were taken aboard, sand being more 
easily handled was taken as ballast, leaving the stone 
wall behind to be buried up some thirty feet by the 
shifting sands during the eight hundred centuries 
that had elapsed. Some very convincing argu- 
ments of this theory are the facts, first, that it was 
used as a habitation is undoubted. Second, if it 
had been the foundation of a wooden structure, 
there would have been found marks of discoloration 
in the sand caused by the decaying of the wood, but 
such marks were not found. Third, the close resem- 
blance in the work to that displayed in building the 



14 

Old Mill at Newport, R. I. By whom it was built, 
has never been definitely settled, but tlie strongest 
evidence is given in favor of the Norsemen. 

The late Hon. Silas Cotterel, of that place, a man 
well known for his interest in and knowledge of 
archaeology, at one time connected with the Public 
Library, gave it as his opinion that there could be no 
doubt, but both structures were devised and con- 
structed by the same race of men, and that was the 
ancient Norsemen. Until this theory can be dis- 
proved and a more plausible one substituted, this 
place can claim to be one of the oldest places in the 
New World visited by Europeans. Coming down 
through the lapse of centuries, we find it visited by 
John Smith on his voyage when he discovered 
Thatcher's Island, Straitsmouth and Isle of Shoals. 
Also by Bartholomew Gosnold in the Ship Sparrow 
Hawk, afterwards wrecked at what is now Orleans. 
It was also visited by French fishermen prior to 1620, 
Monhegin traders, and the notorious Indian kidnap- 
per and slaver. Hunt, probably made this harbor his 
headquarters while engaged in his nefarious traffic 
along the coast. Still, notwithstanding its being so 
well known and from its size, security, and close 
proximity to the fishing grounds, advantages which 
to-day it possesses over any other harbor on the coast 
for the fishing business, no attempt was made to 
to make a permanent settlement till years after the ar- 
rival of the Mayflower and the very last part of the 
seventeenth century. 



ARRIVAL OF THE MAYFLOWER AND LAND- 
ING OF THE PILGRIMS. 

We now come to one of the most noted events, 
not only in Provincetown history, but also most in- 
timately connected with, and leaving its impress 
upon the whole nation, — the arrival and stopping 
in the liarbor of the Mayflower and her little colony. 
Here it was that the Pilgrim band first landed in 
the New World after their long and boisterous pas- 
sage. They hailed with joyous hearts this safe and 
pleasant harbor of refuge, entered and anchored on 
Nov. 11th, 1620, O. S. It being Saturday, the next 
was duly observed in prayer and thanksgiving to 
God, who had safely brought them through trials 
and dangers to this haven of rest. Had they been 
fishermen or mariners, instead of a pastoral and agri- 
cultural people, Plymouth Rock would never have 
become so celebrated in history nor so often referred 
to, as the place where the Pilgrims landed. Certain 
events took place here of great moment that still 
bear their impress on the Common wealth and Nation. 
In this harbor in the cabin of the Mayflower was 
drawn up and signed the compact for the Govern- 



16 

nient of the colony a primitive form of repubicanism 
and the root from wliich sprang the constitution of 
the United States. We give an exact copy taken 
from the original document now in Pilgrim Hall, 
Plj'mouth, and signed by the men of the company, 
forty-one in number : 

In ye name of G-od^ Ame7i, 

We, whose names are underwritten the loyal sub- 
jects of our dread and soveraigne Lord King lames 
by ye grace of God, of Great Britain, France and 
Ireland King Defender of the Faith etc; having 
undertaken for ye glory of God and ye advance- 
ment of ye Christian Faith and Honor of our King 
and Countrie a voyage to plant ye first colony in ye 
ye northern part of Virginia, doe by these presents 
solemanly and mutually in ye presence of God and 
of one another covenant and combine ourselves to- 
gether into a civil body politick for better ordaining 
and preservation and furtherance of 3'e ends afore 
said and by virtue hereof to enact, constitute and 
form such just and equall laws ordinances, act and 
constitution, and offices from time to time, as shall 
be thought most meete and conveniant for ye gener- 
al good of ye Colonic. Unto which we promise all 
due submission and obedience. In witness whereof, 
we have here under subscribed our names at Cap 
Codd, ye 11th of November, in ye year of ye raigne 
of our Soverigne Lord King lames, of England, 
France and Ireland ye eighteenth, and of Scotland 
ye fifty-fourth A. D. 1620. 

This brief, but comprehensive document, was the 



17 

first written constitution, emanating from the popu- 
lar will, ever adopted in America, was devised and exe- 
cuted on the first day of their arrival here, before any 
other business was transacted. Finding that the 
place was not suited for agriculture, a party started 
out, after repairing their shallop, or small boat, to ex- 
plore the coast for a more favorable location, but 
we only treat of their doings here, as the outcome of 
the cruise in the boat is well known. After restinsj 
on the Sabbath, the next day a portion of the men 
came ashore and began tlie building of a shallop, cut- 
ting the trees that grew here to make the timbers, and 
the women to wash the clothes used on the voyage, thus 
dedicating Monday to the Goddess of Cleanliness, 
wliich day has been kept for that purpose by their de- 
scendants, wherever located. On December 10th, 
the first affliction befell the little band in the loss of 
Mary, the wife of Governor Bradford, who, by some 
cause unknown, fell overboard from the vessel during 
the night, was drowned amd her body never recovered. 
There were three other deaths during their stay here. 
On the 16tu, Peregrine White was born, whose 
descendents that can trace their lineage direct to 
him, are now living in Duxbury and other adjoining 
towns to Plymouth. Thus, here occurred the first 
birth and death of the Colony. Here, too that large 
of heart, but small of stature, the " Great Heart of 
Colony," as he has been called, — Miles Standish mar- 



18 
shalled and drilled liis army of sixteen men, formed 
an exploring expedition and marched up the Cape as 
far as what is now Wellflet, intending to do battle 
with the Indians should they prove hostile, bat find- 
ing none on which to exercise his warlike skill, confis- 
cated a lot of corn and returned without a battle. 
This corn, it is said, was kept for seed, and w^as tlie 
means of keeping the colony from starvation the fol- 
lowino' vear at Plvmouth. Tradition has it that res- 
titution was made to the Indians from wdiom it was 
taken. It is hardly fair to question the act, as has 
been done b}' some, for perhaps under the circum- 
stances it was admissible. Thus, not only the seed 
of tlie government of the colon}^ was from this place 
but the seed for its support was taken from tlie im- 
mediate vicinity. After remaining here till the 20tli, 
anchor was weighed and attempt made to reach Ply- 
mouth, but a strong head wind sprung up and their 
final stopping place was not reached till the following 
day, and Plymouth Rock from that date began to be 
a matter of history, and to be known as the place 
where the Pilgrims landed. Attempt has been made 
to have some mark or monument erected here in 
memory of the event, but it has always failed to ma- 
ture. It is no uncommon thing to-day to find those 
that are called well versed in history, ignorant of the 
fact that here was the first landing and stay of the 
Pilgrims or of events that occurred during their stay. 



EARLY HISTORY. 

It was the purpose of tlie writer to give the histo- 
try of the phice in regiihir chronological order omit- 
ting anything pertaining to church affairs, and have, 
wlien treating of that subject, a separate place de- 
voted exclusively to Church history and affairs. 
I^utas church and state were combined in the early 
settlement of the place, and all business pertaining 
to both departments was done at the regular Town 
Meeting, the records of which were kept in those 
early days in a very crude and unsatisfactory man- 
ner, it would be an impossibility to have a separate 
place in recording their history. There are no rec- 
ords of when the place was first settled, and only tra- 
dition to rely upon until we come to the year 1724, 
the date of the oldest record book. Prior to this 
time it was a part of Truro, the boundary line of which 
crossed the Cape from shore to shore, a few feet to 
the westward of what is now the eastern school-house- 
all to the westward of said line was land that belong- 
ed to the Plymouth Colony at first, and afterwards 
to the State. This land was reserved for fishing pur- 
poses and the residence of the squatter fishermen. 



20 
lu 1727 it was incorporated and called Provincetown, 
I) lit as there were settlers east of the line, the}' pe- 
titioned to be set off from Truro and joined to Prov- 
incetown. Accordingly, lots one and two were added 
to this place, and the boundary-line drawn across 
tlie Cape where the house known as the Reuben 
Warehani property now stands, which at that time 
was the most easterly dwelling-house. As the town 
grew, buildings were erected still further east, and 
again the settlers asked to be joined to Province- 
town, but Truro objected unless some of the waste 
land was also taken in as well as the dwelling-houses, 
and the boundary line was again moved and fixed on 
the top of the western hill of the Great Hollow, so 
called. Shortly after East Harbor Bridge was built, 
Truro not wishing to bear all of the expense of keep- 
ing up what was of so much benefit to Provincetown, 
the boundary line, was changed to where it now is, 
about midway of the State Dike at East Harbor. In 
the early days, before any settlement had been made 
here, the Pilgrims claiming their right of possession 
of the fishing privileges in the waters around '' Cape 
Cod," and the use of the land for curing and making 
their fish, would come here during the summer sea- 
son, do their fishing business and return to Plymouth 
in the fall. Sometimes they would sell the privilege 
to other parties to fish for mackerel, bass or cod, and 
use the land for curing purposes at a rate above the 



21 

tax that was paid by the colonists, always reserving 
their right to the land on account of their first land- 
ing and occupying the place. 

By this means, the harbor and land of this extreme 
end of the Cape, was quite a source of revenue to the 
Pilgrim Colony. It is tlie general opinion, that the 
first permanent settlement was made on, or about 
the year 1680, but the name of the party that settled 
i^ lost in tradition, or at least has been so conflict- 
ing that it is impossible to determine the true one. 
For a few years after its incorporation it was a pros- 
perous' little village, but for some cause it began to 
ofo down, so that in 1748, there was scarcelv a familv 
left, but in 1755, there were ten dwelling-houses, be- 
sides some store buildings, making a snug little vil- 
lage, which has steadily increased to the present day. 
In 1763, government built for the inhabitants its first 
place of worship, which was situated on " Meeting 
House " plain, so called, the location not very definite- 
ly pginted out, but on or near the extreme north-west 
end of what is now the " Old Cemetery.'' The es- 
tablished creed by the state, was the Orthodox, and 
one Mr. Spear was the authorized minister. In the 
3^ear 1773, the church building was torn down, and 
another one erected, using some of the old building 
in its construction. This building stood on the site 
of the present Catholic parsonage. It was called the 
''the Old White Oak," from the fact that the frame 



00 



was of that wood, and cat in Barnstable. The 
church was finished and dedicated Feb. 20th, 1774. 
On the preceding Dec. 7th, 1773, at a legal Town 
Meeting assembled, Rev. Samuel Parker was called 
upon to take charge of the society. The town re- 
cords of that date show this entry : 

•'At a meeting of the inhabitans of Provincetown, 
being legally warned, Thomas Kilburn beiiig Mod- 
erator at sed meeting, there agreed by vote to give 
untoe AJr. Samuel Parker for his yearly salerie, the 
sum of 66 <£-13s.-4d. lawful monie to settel in sed 
town, and preach ye gospel to ye inhabitans. Also 
toe give untoe him the frame of hys house and to 
build haff of it, purposed to be thirty feet in length, 
twenty-seven wide, eight in the wall ; likewise cut 
his fii'e wood and toe give him meddo to keep two 
cows in the best of the meddo." Per me, 

Samuel x\twood. Town Clerk. 

Samuel Parker accepted the call, and preached in 
the church until his death, which took place April 
11th, 1811. In 1843, the - Old White Oak" was 
taken down, and the present church built of the 
material, with the addition of new lumber. The 
old white oak frame being all utilized in the building. 
This building was dedicated Sept. 17th, 1843. 
In the building owned by the heirs of the late God- 
frey R3^der, now standing opposite the Town Hall, 
is a large Gothic window which was taken from the 
''Old White Oak" church on its removal. When 



23 

ill the churcli, it was in the rear of the pulpit. The 
seats in the old cliurch went on hinges, and were 
turned up when the people rose to pra}*; one can im- 
agine the noise made when the congregation seated 
themselves, when roguish hids in the back part of the 
house would turn up a dozen or more, and when the 
l^reacher would say amen, run along and help make 
more noise by striking down the seats one after 
another. In 1873, this church was thoroughly over 
hauled, a brick basement placed under it making one 
large vestry, and two smaller ones. This is the 
church of to-day. It was re-dedicated on Feb. 20th, 
1874, which was just one hundred years after the 
building and dedication of the old original "White 
Oak." It was not a premeditated affair that it so 
happened, but a singular and remarkable coincidence. 
In the year of 1793, one Mr. Humbard, a Metho- 
dist preacher, was onboard of a vessel lying in the 
harbor here, wind bound, on a passage from New 
York to Halifax, N. S., came ashore and preached a 
Methodist sermon in tlie house of Samuel Rider, 
then standing on what is now the corner of Gosnold 
and Commercial streets, site now occupied by 
Adams's drug store andresidence. This was the first 
introduction of Methodism, and from that sermon 
several drew off from the established Orthodox creed. 
At that time, church and state were one, and the 
religion was not received with favor by the majority 



24 

of the citizens. The liberal spirit of the present day 
had not come forth and persecution of those of a 
different belief by the stronger party, was thought to 
be doing God's service. However, a little band of 
nine joined together, and the Methodist church was 
established, uuder the charge of Rev. George Can- 
non, the first preacher stationed here. The society 
grew and flourished notwithstanding the persecution, 
and as all church affairs were settled at Town Meet- 
ing, there were some lively discussions at the meet- 
ings, and if the reader will notice in the chapter on 
*• (31d Town Records,'' he will see that some severe 
laws were passed. A little over two years after the 
first sermon was preached, the Methodists withdrew 
and built a house of worship under great difficulties 
from [)ersecution by the Orthodox, having the timber 
for the frame of the building cut up by a mob, and 
used as a bon-fire, on which was also placed the 
effigy of the Methodist preacher. That the Metho- 
dists also possessed pluck, and though in the minority, 
showed that they were not always passive, at one 
time the keeper of the church where the Town Meet- 
ings were always held, and one of the selectmen, be- 
ing Methodist, got possession of the key to the build- 
ing, and locked out the Orthodox, refused to give 
them the key to the building so they could hold a 
parish meeting. A bass viol had been bought by 
the town for the Church, and Samuel Kilby, the 



25 

player, when he turned Methodist, concluded that 
the viol had turned Methodist also, and took it with 
him as part of tlie spoils. This viol is in existence 
to-day, in the keeping of Mr. George C. Hill. The 
first Methodist cliurch was built on the site of the 
dwelling-house opposite the residence of Charles B. 
Snow, on Bradford Street. This building stood un- 
til 1818, when it was torn down, and another built 
on the corner of Bradford and Ryder Street, where 
the house of Dr. Henry Shortle stands. This stood 
one year, when it was enlarged, forty more pews 
were added, and the building stood until 1837. By 
that time, the church membership had so increased 
that a larger building was required and one was 
built opposite, on the spot where St. Peter's Hall now 
stands. This was a large building, with one hundred 
and thirty-six pews on the lower floor ; it remained 
until 1860, when the present structure was built, and 
called the Center M. E. Church. In a fish store on 
the lower side of Commercial Street, nearly opposite 
the Town Hall, can be seen a large, heavy, panel 
dool", this was the vestry door of the old church, and 
was placed there, by the late Francis Joseph, the 
owner of the building. From the time of this churcb 
organization, under the charge of Rev. Geo. Cannon, 
in 1795, there were eleven preachers in succession, 
when Rev. Alexander McLane was stationed here, 
who gave place to Epaphras Kibby in 1812, who on 



26 

account of ill health, as the church records state, 
remained here until 1824, having sole charge and di- 
rection of the church. During the meantime he 
married one Betsey Cook, who has recently died 
in Chelsea (January 30th, 1890) at the advanced age 
of ninety-five years, three months. Rev. Mr. Kibby 
returned again and had charge during the years 1828 
and 1829. It was mainly under his labors that the 
Society grew to the extent it has, — the largest in tlie 
place. 



COPIES OF OLD RECORDS AS FOUND IN 
THE OLD TOWN BOOKS. 

Dec. 7th, 1773. "Voted that any purson should 
be found getting cranberys before ye twentyth of 
September excedeing one quart should be liable to 
pay one doler and have the berys taken away." 
Voted, '' That they who shall find any pursons so 
gathering shall have them and the doler." 

Samuel Atwood, 

Town Clark. 

Jan. 12th, 1789. Voted. John Conant keeper of 
the meeting-house, and to swepe it every four weeks 
and shet and open the winder shetters all the year 
round for which serves he is to Receave two dolers, 
one doler to be given out of the treasury to whom- 
soever shall bring out the parson or parsons that 
Rites on the plasteren in the meeting-house. Charles 
Atkins tiden man for which he is to have one doler. 
Voted to buy a pitch pipe for ye Singers. 

June 25th, 1790. Voted, That the tax bill that 
was sent down should lay unmedeld with. Voted, 
That Seth Nickerson should go to Boston to see if 
he could get the Said taxes off. 

September 12, 1791. At a meeting of the inhabi- 
tence provincetown Stephen atwood moderater 
agreed to send Richard perry and Elijah Nickerson, or 



28 

Seth Nickerson as a committe, to Mr. Joseph Snows, 
at Harwich, too meet the other committe in order to 
try to get the Dutys taken of the Artecal of salt and 
any other Grevenceses they may think proper. 

July 23d, 1798. Voted for Abner Dunham to be 
Custom House Officer if he can obtain it without 
charge to the town. 

Copy of the ivarrant to call a toivn meeting to vote for 
a Federal Mepresentative^ Jan. lltJi^ 1779: 

To Seth Nickerson Constable of the town of Prov- 
incetown Greeting, you are hereby, required in the 
name of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, to 
Notify and w^arn the male inhabitants of the town of 
Provincetown, of twenty-one years of age, and up- 
ward having a freehold estate within the Common- 
wealth of the annual income of three pounds, or any 
estate to the value of sixty pounds too meet at the 
meeting-house, on Thursday, the seventeenth Day 
of Jan. Y. next at teen of the Clock in the foar 
noon to give in their votes for a Federal Reprasante- 
tive in the Congress of the United States agreeable 
to the Constitution of the Said Commonwealth given 
under our hands at Said Provincetown this seventh 
day of Jan. Y. 1799. 

Stephen Niokeeson, 
JosiAH Nickerson, 
Selectmen. 
At a meeting of the qualified voters, of the town 
of Provincetown, May 13th, 1799, for the purpose 
of seeing whether the town would take care of Hannah 
Rider or not voted, that she should not be supported 
by the town. Voted, to petion the Gineral Cort to 



29 

let them know the Disturbance likely to arize concern- 
ing the support of the Methodis poor. Voted, for 
Seth Nickerson to go with the petisson and be paid 
for his expense and trouble. 

Mar. 4th, 1800. Voted, that Ebenezear Rider, 
keep Hannah Rider for forty-five dolers this year, if 
the selectmen cannot get anybody to keep her for 
less. 



During the fall of 1801, small pox was prevalent 
in the place and the following precautions were 
voted for at a special town meeting, called Dec. 28th, 
1801: 

Voted that any person who is the head of any 
family, who shall permit to the number of six per- 
sons to meet together at his house for frolicking, or 
any unnescery purposes, shall pay to the use of the 
town, a sum not exceeding fifty Dollors. Voted, 
that the houses, together with the hin houses, have 
a watch set also that a Smoke house be built. Voted, 
that all Dogs and Cats be Ciled, also that all hogs 
and Sheep runing at large out of the oners inclosure, 
shall be Ciled and the oners shall pay fifty Dollors 
Dec. 28th, 1801. 

Feb. 25th, 1792. Isaac Mayo gave his afformation 
to use his best indever to preform the office of a Con- 
stable this year, Before me, 

Samuel At wood, Town Clerk. 

€o]py of an old Bill of Lading entered u2:)on Town 
.Records. The only one on record: 
Provincetown, Dec. 10th, 1790. This may certify 



30 

all whome it may concern that I the Subscriber 
have Surved the following articles and that they are 
put in good and lawful order and that they was 
actuly Shipt on Board the Schooner Rover Taler 
Smally master Bound for the West Indies. 

275 bbls pikel fish 

201 Quentels 
Which in order By me for Shipping Nathanal Hard- 
ing. Sworn before me, 

Samuel Atwood, Town Clark. 
Aug. 3, 1795. 

At a meeting of the inhabitants of 
provincetown warned and assembled. Voted to rase 
36£ to pay the tax bill that is sent here which is one 
Shilling, Eight pence per pole. Voted that any that 
will not pay the Standing minesters Rate Shall have 
his interest Sesed. Voted that there Shall not Be a 
a Methodes meetin-house bilt in this town. 

Solomon Cook, Moderator. 

Jan. 16th, 1792. Voted to have a Singing- 
Scool next fall. Voted to carry brush to Shank 
painter to prevent tides coming in. 

Jan. 28th, 1784. Voted to buy a bible for the 
town price IX — Is — 6d. Voted that the Selectmen 
have a Shilling. Each meeting-house keeper the 
price of 4 bushels of corn. 

March, 5th, 1810. Voted that guese shall not go 
at large in the town this year. 

March, 4th, 1811. Voted to Raise by a tax to 
defray town Charges for the preasant year three hun- 
dred dollars for the towns Expenses beside the 
State and county tax and no part Shall go to pay 
any minerster whatsoever. 



31 

Provincetowii, March lltli, 1811. Then person- 
ally appeared Simeon Conant and took oath Required 
by law to qualify him to Share as a Selectmen, 
Assesor of taxes, Health officer, Surveyor of high- 
ways and Oversearsof poor for town of provincetown 
for the year Ensuing or until others Shall be Sworn 
in his Stid. 

Before me, 

Samuel Cook, Town Clerk. 

Oopy of protest noted before the Town Clerk htj 
Joshua Hoivard^ master of Sloops Peggy ^ 1792 : 

Be it known and made manefest to all whom it 
may concern that on the 28th day of January, at 
provincetown, Cape Cod, in the county of Barnstable, 
State of Massachusetts, came and disered of us the 
Subscribers, Selectmen of provincetown, to grant 
him a protest which we have done as far as the law 
admits upon condition he maketh oath untoe the 
town clerk of Sed town and the Sed town clerk to 
make record of the Same, — 

Joshua Howard, master of the sloop peggy, Caleb 
Howard and Isaac terrel, Seamen on Board the Sed 
Sloop, and made declaration That on the 21st 
of inst. January we left Cape ann the wind W. N. 
W. steered closehauled to the wind, the Proceeding 
day Being Janery ye 22d, made the Island of Monhi- 
gin from mast-head Bearing North the wind N. N. W, 
Wore ship and Stood to the Westward untell the 23rd 
instant, made Cape ann and stood in with Thatcher's 
Island, after passing the wind hauled to the north- 
ward which made it impossible to fetch the Eastern 
point of Cape ann, hove about but could not fetch 



32 

the Cape ann Wore ship and stood too the westward 
again to keep smooth water iintell 8 o"Clock P. ~SL 
VVore again and Stood to the E. and N. 24 hours, 
then wore ship to the westward and southward, the 
wind W. N. W. and N. W. then wore sliip and Stood 
to E. and W. 3 hours, then wore ship and stood in 
West 1 hour, then made the surf but being so near 
the Shore liad not room to ware Sliip So in an Instant 
was in the Breakers where we Struck and soon 
grounded Wherefore I do protest against the wind 
and weather and seas whereby said sloop & all con- 
cerned hatli or may suffer any loss or damage this 
done & protested to at provincetown, in the State of 
Massachusetts this 28th of Janury A. D. 1792 By 

Joshua Howard J before me 
Caleb Howard \ Samuel at\vood 
Isaac terrace ) town clerk. 

Another protest by one of the seamen on his oicn re- 
sponsihility : 

I, Caleb Howard, of Broad Bay Waldbourgh in 
the County of Lincoln of lawful age doth declare 
and make oath that he had his Chist Broke open on 
thursday morning, ye 2t3th of Janery 1792 by per- 
son or persons unknown, but judge them to Be ]jeo- 
ple which came on board the night before, Whilst he 
and others wass coming in from the Backside of the 
Cape in Search of houses the Night before in the 
Sloop peggy Capt. Joshua Howard he further says 
the Chest he left on the Backside was Lockt he fur- 
ther Sayth not. 



33 

The above was made on oath before rae, 

Samuel at wood, Town Clerk. 
Januiy 30th, 1792, 
In presense of 

RiCHD. PARRY, \ 

Solomon Cook, \ Selectmen. 
Samuel rider, ) 

Form of advertisements of wrecked goods found 
and recorded. 

Taken up by Gershom Cutter, 5th of January, 
1803, at a place called wood end, upon Cape Cod, in 
the Reck of the Schoon. Washington one trunk, one 
cliest fore bags contents unknown likewise the own- 
ers of the property. 

JosiAH Nicker SON, 
Town Clerk. 

When up by amberous Dyer of provincetown, 
5th of January 1803, near Race point, on Cape Cod, 
sixteen barrels of flower, two chests, one hammock, 
two bhmkets and one bedd advertised the same ac- 
cording to law. 

JOSIAH NiCKERSON, 

Town Clerk. 
The Embargo bearing heavy on the Citizens of 
the place, a town meeting was held to devise some 
means to lift the burden, the meeting was called 
Aug. 22nd. 1808, when it was *' Voted unanamously 
to petition the President of the United States re- 
spectfully to suspend the Embargo either wholly or 
in part according to the powers vested in him by 
Congress, or if an}^ doubts should exist as to the 



34 

sufficency of those powers that he be requested to 
call congress together as soon as possible. 

Voted, to have a Committee of five chosen to 
draft the petition accordingly & send it to the Presi- 
dent of the U. S. 

Voted, that the Selectmen together with Capt. 
Solomon Cook & Mr. Daniel Pease be the commit- 
tee to carry into effect the votes of said Town 
Meeting." 

A Copy of the Petitioyi draum and jyresented: 

''To the President of the United States. The in- 
habitants of the town of Provincetown in legal 
town meeting assembled beg leave to respectfully 
represent : 

That they have severely suffered from the opera- 
tion of the laws laying and enforcing an embargo on 
all ships and vessels in the ports and harbours of the 
United States not only in common with tlieir fellow- 
citizens throughout the union but particularly from 
their local & peculiar situation their interest being 
almost totally in Fish and vessels. The perishable 
nature of the fish and the sale of it depending 
solely upon a forren market together with the bar- 
renness of their soil not admitting of cultivation 
bearing them no resource but the fisheries. They 
flatter themselves that they are & ever will be ready 
to manefest their patriotism in making every 
nesesary sacrifice for the good of their Country and 
to these laws they have yeilded unlimited respect 
and submission not a single instance of an evasion 
or violation has taken place among them but so dis- 
tressing are the embarrassments produced by the 



I 



35 

Embargo that they cannot conteniphite its continu- 
ance without serious and ahirming apprehentions. 
Jt is needless to detail to your Excellency tlie vari- 
ous evils that must result from a total suspension of 
their business havino- loner been habituated to a 
maritime employment & whose resources have solely 
depended upon the Ocean whose shipping and tish 
thus left to waste and perish on their hands not only 
to the loss of their property but in some instances 
of health and life. Feeling as your petitioners do 
the accumalating pressure of these Evils and Confi- 
dent that your Excellency is disposed so far as you 
are constitianally authorized to grant them relief they 
are happy to find that by the laws of the United 
States it appears to be within 3'our power to Suspend 
the Embargo in whole or in part whenever Events in 
Europe may in your opinion render it safe and Expe- 
dient Your petitioners regoise in the beleif and trust 
that Such Events have now taken place. They there- 
fore pray that the Embargo in Whole or in part may 
be suspended according to the powers vested in the 
presedent by the Congress of the U. S. And if any 
doubts Should Exist of the competency of those 
powers they would humbly request that Congress 
might be convened as early as possible for the purpose 
of taking the Subject into Consideration. 

A true Copy of Said petition. 
Attest Okasmus 

Thomas, Town Clerk. 

A few items from Treasurer's account book, which 
is headed with these lines : "This book belongs to 
the precint of Cap Cod for ye Treasuarys acorn pts 




Xfj. 

C 
fciO 

o 
o 






2 ^ 

CO ci 
2^> S 



o 

Vh 

O ^-i 



38 
1724." The first entry in the book is dated: 

April 24th, 1724. To Cash paid Mr. Samuel Spear 
for part his Sailery 10 Shillings. Paid for this book 
for ye precits acompts 0£ — 10s — 6d. 

Jan. 12th, 1736. iVs pint licker OX — 2s — Od 
corn and molasses by Done 0<£ — lis — 6d. 

April 13th, 1734. fore curing the School-masters 
Wife 3 pounds. 

In the year 1738 on May 2nd, the following trans- 
action was recorded. 

Ye town of Ephrim Done former Trasyer to blong 
4<£ — 15s — 7d. Mr. Sper ordered me to tack out of 
my rate he od me 2£ — 6s — Od making 1£ — Is — 7d. 



AN OLD DOCUMENT. 

Mention is made in the chapter of Historical facts 
of the boundary line between Truro and the Province 
lands. The following is a Copy of the original 
document presented by the committee appointed to 
define the boundary line. 

In Council Octo. 25th, 1714. The report of the 
Committe for runing ye line between Truro and ye 
province lands at Cape Codd Viz. — pursuant to an 
order of the Great and General Court or assises begun 
and held at Boston the 26th of May, 1714. We the 
Subscribers being appointed a Committe have made 
Enquiery for the true bounds or line of division 
between the lands belonging to the proprietors of 
ye town of Truro and the province land at Cap 



39 

Codd and with tlie assistance of the Selectmen of 
said Truro have fixed and settled the said line as 
foUoweth Viz. Begin ing at the Easterly end of a 
cliff near the cape harbor called by the Indians 
Kexconeoqet and by the English Cormorant hill at 
a Jaw bone of a Whale set in the ground There by 
the side of a Red oak Stump & thence Running by 
& marked ranged Trees near on a north and by 
west line about half a })oint more westerly to a mark- 
ed pine Tree standing by a reedy pond called by the 
Indians Woooknotchsqisset & from thence by marked 
range of Trees to a high hill on the backside near 
the north sea with a red ceder post set in the said 
hill and thence to run in the same line to the sea and 
runing back on tlie contrary line to the harbour. 
Thomas Paine Esq. & Zedekiah Lumbert agents for 
said proprietors were present and Consenting Thereto 
as witness our hands here to set. The 24th day of 
Sepr. — ranno Dom. 1714 — Thomas Mulford, Thos. 
Paine, Joseph Doane, John Otis, Hez. Purrington, 
Zed. Lumbert, Saml. Knowls, Will Basset. Read & 
accepted, concurd b}^ the Representatives. 

Concented to by J. Dudly. a True 
copy taken by me Solo. Freeman. 

[Having carefully gone over the ranges as laid 
down in this old document, and with the help of 
some of the older citizens with their traditions, I 
have been enabled to fix very definitely this old 
boundary line. The hill called Kexconeoqet, is the 
hill on which is now standing the houses of Capt. 
Daniel Kemp, Henry J. Lewis, George Lewis and 



40 
Daniel F. Lewis. Runninor on the course griveii 
brings you to the pond called Woouknotchsqisset, 
which is now called Farm pond. This pond, undoubt- 
ly, has been filled in a great deal by time, and b}^ 
the people making meadow and cranberry bog. The 
high Hill is now known as Oak Head, and the north 
sea is the depression between that and the beach. 
Undoubted evidence, both by the configuration of 
tlie land and the abundance of water-washed stone, 
as well as the testimony of the older people, prove 
that at one time there was a large body of water 
there, and at a no ver}^ distant day. The closing line 
''to the sea" must mean the ocean proper. If any 
one should think that the line runs too far to the 
eastward I would call their attention to the fact that 
at that time there was very little variation of the 
compass, if any, while at present, according to the last 
surveys, there is over a point westerly. — (Author.) 



SCHOOLS. 

In the year 1828, the town was set off into six 
school districts, six houses were built ; two, of which 
are still standing to-day. District No. 1 is the house 
now occupied by the Peach famil}^ at the eastern end 
of the town, near Fire Engine house No. 1. The 
second building, district No. 2. was remodeled and 
stands on the corner of Conwell and Bradford street, 
occupied by Mrs. Tempa Winn. These are all that 
remain to-day. The building used at present by 
Mr, John D. Hilliard, for putting up prepared cod 
fish, was used as a school-building during the time 
the school-house in district No. 2. was being built. 
District No. 3 School-house was built on the corner 
of Wiiislow and Bradford Streets, at the foot of 
Town Hill, on the South-east side. District No. 4 
was at the corner of Prince and Cud worth streets. 
District No. 5 was located on Cross street, just in the 
rear of the dwelling-house owned by Captain M. J. 
Cavanagh. District No. 6 was on Commercial 
Street, a short distance to the Westward of what is 
now called West Vine Street, and near the spot 
where William Newcomb's house now stands. Each 



42 

district had a prudential committee of one, appointed 
to take care and charge of the school-house, provide 
the fuel for fires, and all other things needed. It was 
also his duty to call the district together to nomi- 
nate a school-mas ter for the winter. Usually, the 
one chosen was the man that had made the poorest 
season's work fishing. Prior to 1828, their had been 
private schools taught in several places, but no re- 
cords of the same liave been kept. The location of 
the places where they were iield, cannot be definite- 
ly fixed on account of the contradictory traditional 
statements. One old school-building, however, can 
be pointed out. The building owned by Charles B. 
Snow, known as Snow's Block on Bradford Street, 
was used at one time for school purposes, and called 
by the dignified title of Seminary. Old records also 
state, that there was at one time thirteen families at 
Race Point, and a school-house was built for their 
use. The sum of fifty dollars was appropriated by 
the town for the support of that school each year. On 
February 9th, 1846, it was voted to build a school- 
house on Long Point, some forty families residing 
there. This building was one of the last to be re 
moved, and now stands on Commercial Street, near 
the Post Office'. Prior to 1853, there was a High 
School, where only English branches were taught. 
This school was held in several different places, one 
of which, was in the before-mentioned Seminary 



43 

building. When the Town Hall was built, on High 
Pole Hill, in 1853, the High School was then per- 
manently established, and held in that building, un- 
til the building was burned. The school, then, was 
kept in the vestry of the Congregational Church, 
until the present High and Grammar School build- 
ing was erected in 1880, the town appropriating 
eight thousand dollars for the purchase of land, and 
the erection of the building. In this school the 
higher branches are taught in connection with several 
of the foreign languages. 



FIRE DEPARTMENT. 

Provincetown has long been noted for its excel- 
lent and efficient Fire Department, and with the 
recent additions of a Steamer and Chemical it can take 
precedence over many more wealthy and populous 
places. Much of its efficiency is due to the board of 
engineers, and its Chief, Mr. John D. Hilliard, who 
have used every means possible, for its advancement 
and welfare. Always prompt at the first alarm, a 
friendly and wholesome rivalry keeps up the Elan of 
the organization. It is no small task to run between 
two and three miles dragging an engine and then be 
in a state of efficincy to do duty, but such has been 
repeatedly the case. One particular case will show 
some of the labors performed by this Departuient : 

On March 4th, 1875, about 7.30 P. M., a severe 
snow-storm was raging, and the streets were heavily 
blocked with snow. An alarm of fire was given, 
which proved to be from a building known as Adams' 
Hall, a large tw^o-story, wooden building, occupied 
on the lower floor as a clothing store ; the second 
story was used by the Catholics, as a place to hold 
church services. Working and hauling the engine 



45 

THE OLD EXfilXE, WASHIXGTOX. 




John I>. Milliard, (^eo. S. Cook, James Yonng, Otis Lovering-, I^aac 
Higgins, Lemuel Cook, Natlil. Avers. 

through snow-drifts from two to four feet deep, some 
of the engines being nearly a mile away, yet wlien 
they arrived and were placed, were worked and hand- 
led with such skill that the walls of the building were 
saved, after the roof fell in. A dwelling-house sepa- 
rated from the burning building by scarcely two feet, 
was hardly scorched. The wall of the burned build- 
ing stood for a long time, a monument to the skill 
of our Firemen. 



46 

The rirst movement towards a tire department was 
made on March 7th, 1-^36, wlien at a town meeting 
it was voted to buy an engine. Mr. Joseph P. 
Johnson was appointed to make tlie purchase, and 
the old Washington was built at the Hunneman 
Works in Boston, expressly for this place, and after 
forty years of service is still in good working order, 
though retired from active service, and given a place 
in tlie basement of the Town Hall. 

On Nov. I4th, the same year, the town voted to 
buy thirty second-hand leather buckets, one hundred 
feet of leading liose, also other necessary fixtures. In 
1850 another engine was bought and called the 
Franklin, which is in active service to-day under the 
name of Tiger No. 5, it is manned by boys from 
fourteen to eighteen years, who receive their fire 
education and then enter the other companies. The 
lads take great pride in their machine, and at an 
alarm of fire strive hard to get ahead of the older 
companies. 

In May, 1859, the Board of Engineers was formed 
with the late E. G. Loring as Chief, followed by Eben 
S. Smith, who was succeeded by the present incum- 
bent, Mr. John D. Hilliard, who became a member 
of the board in 1866. The present board consists of 
five members including the Chief, who received his 
appointment as Chief in 1870. Clerk, Lysander N, 
Paine, appointed 1869, George O. Knowles 1877, 




Chief Eii'^ineer, 
John I). HilUard. 



Clerk. 
Lysander X. Paine. 
John (i. "NVhitconib. 

BOARD OF ENGINEERS P. F. D. 



(Jeo. (>. Knowies. 
(Jeo. H. Holmes. 



48 

John G. VVhiteoml) 1877, George H. Holmes 1883. 
The board hold monthly meetings in their rooms in 
the Town Hall. 

Tlie date of the addition of the rest of the appa- 
ratus is as follows: 

Rescue Hook and J^adder Truck, June 3d, 1859. 
Mazeppa Engine, No. 3, Oct. 12th, 1868. 
Excelsior Engine, No. 4, Oct. 12th, 186?^. 
Ulysses Engine, No. 1, July 14. 1869. 
Franklin Engine, No. 2, August 22d, 1871. 
Excelsior Chemical, Oct. 17, 1889. 
Steamer J. D. Hilliard, Oct. 17, 1889. 

The first attempt to get a steam fire-engine was 
made at the annual town-meeting in February, 1867, 
when the town voted 811,000 to buy one and its 
appurtenances. This vote was rescinded at a special 
meeting, and nothing further was done until the 
annual town-meeting in 1889, when it was voted 
almost unanimously to buy a Steamer and Chemical. 
During the debate on the question in 1869, 
one strong-headed old fellow, who was opposed to the 
purchase, clinched his argument with the remark that 
he believed ''cold water would put out a fire as wall 
as biling water, and there would be no danger of 
scalding the people around the fire." There is an 
abundant supply of water at high tide, and the 
Steamer can put an effective stream from the wharves 



49 

to the most remote building, back from the Main 
street. There are also thirty well reservoirs, twelve 
tubular wells; the wells furnish a sufficient supply 
for all practical purposes. 

The officers of the different Companies, January 
1st, 1890 : 

Rescue Hook and Ladder Truck, No. 1. 

Foreman James A. Small 

Assistant Joseph A. West 

Clerk Andrew T. Williams 

Ulysses Engine, No. 1. 

Foreman T. Julian Lewis 

1st Assistant James S. Dill 

2d Assistant Charles S. Bickers 

Clevk Fred W. Daggett 

Franklin Engine, No. 2. 

Foreman James Burnett 

1st Assistant Fred E. Williams 

2d Assistant George A. Beatty 

Clerk A. P. Hanniim 

Steamer J. D. Hilliard. 

Foreman Joseph W. Cook 

Assistant Charles P. Rogers 

Clerk C. Austin Cook 

Engine Man Samuel McDonald 

Assistant Engine Man William R. Gayland 



50 

Stoker Fred F. Cook 

Chemical Excp:lsioPw, No. 4. 
Foreman Wallace M. Burch 

1st Assistant Frank Burnett 

2d Assistant L. A. Smith 

Clerk Stephen A. Childs 

Tiger Engine, No. 5. 
Foreman Joshua Paine, Jr. 

1st Assistant Lemuel N. Swift 

2d Assistant Oren Cobb 

Clerk Eddie M. Law 

The Companies draw [ay from the town for fifty 
members, but there are from sixty to seventy mem- 
bers enrolled in each Company, witli the exception 
of the Hook and Ladder, No. 1. The money paid 
by the town goes into the general fund, and is spent 
as the company votes. 

Connected with this department is a Mutual Lisur- 
ance Co., which was established January 3d, 1&73, 
to which all firemen are eligible. Upon the death 
of a member an assessment of fifty cents is levied, 
which is kept on deposit till another death occurs. 
The policy-holders receive the amount within twenty- 
four hours of the death of a member. 

The membership at present is three hundred and 
twenty. The number of deaths since organized, to 
January 1st, 1890, have been sixty-three. Amount 
paid out in benefits 89,683.50. 



51 



2 

3 







REBELLION OF 1861 — 1865. 

When the first call was made for men to put down 
the rebellion, some of the Provincetown boys were 
the first to enlist and quite a number enrolled as 
nine months' men. All through those dark days 
they could be found at their posts, never shirking 
duty, and bravely, whenever called upon to act, 
proudly defended their country's flag. There was 
hardly a battle fought, but old Cape Cod, if not 
Provincetown in particular, was represented. In the 
navy, also, were some of the best volunteer officers, 
who had been reared on board her fishing fleets, and 
Commodore Farragut, in an official report, makes 
special mention of a Provincetwn boy. 

In that memorable battle, at the mouth of the 
James River, off Newport News, between the Rebel 
ram Merrimac and the Union fleet, when the Com- 
berland sank, a Provincetown boy went down in her, 
fighting his gun manfully to the last. His name was 
Josiah C. Freeman and to his memory Post G. A. R. 
have named their Post for him. 

The first one who went from this town was Edward 
Clark, but whose commission as master's mate bears 



SOLDIERS' MONUMENT. 








ERE(TKI) BY THK T0» N OF IM{I>VIN< ETOW>. 



63 

date May I4tli, 1861. He was ordered to the brig 
Bainbridge, then on the South American Station. 
The first to go in the army was George E. Crocker, 
who was mustered into service in the 29th Regiment, 
Massachusetts Volunteers, May 18th, 1861. He was 
taken sick in the service and died in 1863; his body 
was brought here and now lies beneath the shadow 
of the monument. 

This town furnished for the war three hundred 
men, which was fifty-seven men more then her quota 
and expended in money #37,452. 

The names of those that were killed or died from 
disease in the line of duty, are as follows : 

AKMY. 

Thomas J. Gibbons, George Lockwood, Henry A. 
Smith, George E. Crocker, Jeremiah Bennett, El- 
kanah Smith, Taylor Small, Jr., John C. Lurten, 
John W. Hobbins, John R. Smith, Solomon R. 
Higgins, Joseph King. 

NAVY. 

Josiah C. Freeman, Samuel T. Paine, William E. 
Tupper, John W. Small, William C. Chipman, Asa 
A. P'ranzen. 

There had been an Army and Navy Association 
here for some time, but a charter was obtained and 
the J. C. Freeman Post 55, G. A. R., was organized 
with twenty charter members on September 23d, 



54 

1884. Since its organization up to January 1st, 
1890, it has lost but three members, one by death, 
one by removal to another state, and one that had 
formerly been in the navy was discharged. 

The Post has a well-furnished room in the Free- 
man Library building, and holds weekly meetings. 
The present officers of the Post are : 



Commander 
S. V. C. 
J. V. C. 

Quarter Master 

Adjutant 

Officer of the Day 

Chaplain 

Surgeon 

Officer of the Guard 

Q. M. Sergeant 

Sergeant Major 

Delegate to Dep. Con 

Alternate 



Joshua Cook, 

J. Harvey Dearborn 

Freeman A. Smith 

Seth Smith 

(jeorge W. Holbi'ook 

Charles W. Burkett 

By ley Lyford 

Samuel Knowles 

Thomas Lowe 

Paron C. Young 

David Cook 

H. P. Hughes 

Georofe W. Holbrook 



The Post now numbers fifty members, whose 
record as copied from their roster is as follows : 

George H. Nickerson was born in Centerville, 
Massachusetts, 1835 ; enlisted as private in Compa- 
ny E., forty-third Reg. Mass. Voluntary Infantry, was 
promoted to a Lieutenancy. Discharged at the ex- 
piration of service, July 30th, 1863. Present Resi- 



55 

deuce, Proviiicetown ; occupation, photographer. 

George Allen was born in Provincetown, 1844. 
entered the service in Company I. third Mass. Cav- 
alry, rose to the rank of Sergeant was discharged ; 
September 28th, 1865; at the expiration of service; 
present residence, Provincetown ; occupation, lum- 
ber dealer. 

Joshua Cook born in Provincetown, 1843 ; enter- 
ed the United States Navy as master mate promoted 
to Acting Ensign. Discharged at his own request. 
Residence, Provincetown ; occupation, ship car- 
penter. 

Freeman A. Smith born in Provincetown, 1833 ; 
enlisted as private in Company H. fifty-fifth Mass- 
Infantry. Discharged July 14th, 1865; at the expi- 
ration of service. Residence, Provincetown; occu- 
pation, janitor. 

Alexander Gayland born in Bath, North Carolina, 
August 17th, 1828; enlisted as private in Company 
I. forty-seventh Mass. Infantry. Discharged Sep- 
tember 1st, 1863 ; at the expiration of service. Res- 
idence, Provincetown ; occupation, machanic and con- 
tractor. 

J. Harvey Dearborn born in South Ware, N. H., 
March 15th, 1831 ; enlisted as private in Company 
G. 16th N. -H. Infantry. Discharged August 20th^ 
1863 ; at the expiration of service. Residence 



56 

ProvincetowD ; occupation, paper hanger and dealer 
in periodicals. 

Seth Smith born in Baldwin, Elaine, March 20th, 
1837 ; entered the service as private Ahirch 11th, 
1864; in the sixteenth iMass. St. Art. attached to the 
twenty-second Army Corps, was at the defence of 
Washington during the three days' fight with the 
Rebel General Early in his attack upon the forts. 
Discharged as Corporal June 2Tth, 1865; at the ex- 
piration of service. Residence, Provincetown ; oc- 
cupation, town clerk and treasurer. 

Raymond Ellington born in Lexington, Kentucky, 
1841; enlisted as private in Company A. thirty-third 
Mass. Infantry, August 5th, 1862; was transferred 
to the third Mass. Cavalry, promoted to Adjutant; 
resigned February 5th, 1865. Residence, Province- 
town ; occupation, depot master. Old Colony Rail- 
Road. 

William H. Hammond born in Busselton, Penn- 
sylvania, 1821 ; enlisted as private in Company H. 
fifty-sixth Mass. Infantry. Discharged January 30th, 
1865 ; for disability. Residence, Provincetown ; oc- 
cupation, landscape gardener, and is a pensioner. 

Paron C. Young borii in Provincetown, 1838 ; en- 
tered service as private in Company I, 3d Mass. Cav- 
alry June 4th, 1864. Was present during the " Wil- 
derness" fight, and was shot through the throat by a 
minie-ball, at the battle of Cedar Creek, Virginia ; 



57 

was discharged on account of wound, July 2nd, 1865, 
Residence, Provincetown ; occupation, postmaster, 
and is a pensioner. 

Nathan S. Hudson born in Provincetown, 1837 ; 
entered the service as private in Company H., fifty- 
sixth Mass. Infantry, June 4th, 1864. Discharged 
May 18tli, 1865, for disability. Residence, Prov- 
incetown ; occupation, laborer, and is a pensioner. 

Charles W. Burkett born in Provincetown, 1844; 
enlisted as private in Company H. fifty-sixth Mass. 
Infantry. Discharged on surgeon's certificate of 
disability, June 15th, 1865. Residence, Province 
town ; occupation, mechanic and dealer in pumps. 

John Connelly born in Galway, Ireland, 1820 ; 
enlisted in the army, was assigned to Company C, 
twenty-second Mass. Infantry ; was transferred to 
the Navy, and discharged for disability September 
1st, 1865; is an invalid pensioner. Residence, Prov- 
incetown. 

David Cook born in Provincetown, 1837 ; enlisted 
as private in Company E, forty -third Mass. Infantry, 
September 26th, 1862; re-enlisted in Company A. 
third Mass. Cavalry, was discharged September 28th, 
1865, at the expiration of service. Residence, 
Provincetown ; occupation, book agent. 

Joseph P. Bickers born in Nova Scotia, 1835 ; en- 
listed September 8th, 1862 ; Company K. fiftieth 
Reg. Mass. Infantry. Discharged at expiration of 



58 

service, August 24th, 1863. Time of service, nine 
months. Residence, Provincetown ; occupation, 
ship joiner. 

Michael A. Parker born in Provincetown ; entered 
the service as private in Company H. fifty-sixth Reg. 
Mass. Infantry, January 4th, 1864. Discharged May 
24th, 1865, at expiration of service. Residence, 
Provincetown ; occupation, wood sawyer, and is a 
pensioner. 

Manuel Williams born in Pico, Azor Islands, 1821, 
entered the service as private in Company H, fifty- 
sixth Reg. Mass. Infantry, was promoted to corpo- 
ral. Discharged at the expiration of service. Resi- 
dence, Provincetown ; occupation, fisherman. 

George W. Holbrook born in East Boston, April; 
23d, 1844 ; enlisted as private in Company C, twentv- 
fifth Reg. Mass. Infantry, October 30, 1861 ; promo- 
ted to corporal. Discharged December 16th, 18.63 ; 
re-enlisted December 17th, 1863, in Company A. 
Veterans, promoted to sergeant, was mustered out at 
the close of the war July 30th, 1865. Residence, 
Provincetown ; occupation, passenger conductor 
Old Colony Railroad. 

Charles C. Wyman born in Manchester, N. H., 
1857; entered service as drummer boy of Company 
K, sixth N. H. Infantry. Discharged Jul}- 15th, 1865, 
at the close of the war. Residence, Provincetown ; 
occupation, section boss Old Colony Railroad. 



59 

James R. Atwood born in Provincetown, 1846 ; 
entered the Navy as landsman April 29th, 1861 ; 
was on board the Frigate Congress in the fight with 
the Rebel Ram Merrimac, off Newport News, when 
the Confess was sunk. Dischargjed February 18th, 
1863. Residence, Provincetown ; occupation, mas- 
ter mariner. 

Nathaniel W. Freeman born in Provincetown, 
1842; entered the navy February 12th, 1864; as 
master's mate, served till May 1 7th, 1865 and resign- 
ed. Residence Provincetown ; occupation, mariner. 

Charles H. Marston born in Barnstable, 1842 ; en- 
tered the service as private in Company A, third 
Mass. Cavalry, January 4th, 1864. Discharged Sep- 
tember 28th, 1865, at expiration of service. Resi- 
dence, Provincetown ; occupation, master mariner ; 
employed in the whaling business. 

Reuben W. Rich born in Provincetown, 1832; en- 
tered the service as private in Company H, fifty-sixth 
Mass. Infantry, February 17th, 1864. Discharged 
July 21st, 1865; expiration of service. Residence, 
Provincetown ; occupation, mariner. 

Samuel Knowles born in Truro, February 26th, 
1831 ; mustered into service July 27th, 1862, in 
Company A, thirty-tliird Reg. Mass. Infantry. Dis- 
charged May 24th, 1863, for disability. Residence, 
Provincetown ; occupation, dealer in flour and grain, 
and keeper of livery. 



60 

John P. Grozier born in Truro, 1840 ; entered tlie 
service September 20tli, 1862, as private in C'o]n})a- 
ny E, forty-third Reg. Mass. Infantry. Diseliarged 
at expiration of service Jnly 80th, 1863. Residence, 
Truro ; occnpation, farmer. 

William W. Smith born in Barnstable, 182H; en- 
tered the service as private in (Company I, forty- 
seventh Reg. Mass. Infantry ; promoted to corpora!. 
Discharged September 1st, 1«63, at expiration of 
service. Residence, Provincetown : occupation, 
boat builder. 

Byley Lyford born in Dover, Me., August 1st, 
1832; enlisted as private in Company K, tliirty-fifth 
Reg. Mass. Infantry August 1st, 1862 ; was at the 
battle of South Mountain, September 14th, 1862: at 
Anitetam September 17th, 1862 ; and in that battle 
was wounded in the arm by a bullet. Discharged 
by reason of the wound December 7th, 1862. Resi- 
dence, Provincetown ; occupation, house cai-penter. 

Philip Freeman born in Fayal, Azorean Islands. 
1846; entered the service as private in Company I, 
fifty-sixth Reg. Mass. Infantry. Discharged at ex- 
piration of service. May 29th, 1865. Residence, 
Provincetown ; occupation, seaman. 

Levi B. Kelley born in South Yarmouth, 1827 ; en- 
tered service as pilot in the United States Navy No- 
vember 20th, 1864 ; promoted to Acting Ensign. Dis- 
charged Septemberl6th, 1865, at expiration of ser- 



61 
vice. Residence, Provincetown ; occupation, seaman. 

James Cashmauborn in Liverpool. England, lS2o; 
enlisted as private in Company I, third Mass. Cav- 
alry January 5th, 1862. Discharged at expiration of 
service September 28th, 1865. Residence, Province- 
town ; was keeper of Race Point Liglit for fifteen 
years, but now retired. Received a gun sliot wound 
at the battle of Winchester, Va., and receives a [)en- 
sion. 

John Rosenthal born in Alsace, under the French 
government in 1833; came to this country in 1853 ; 
enlisted in the United States Army, in lialtimore, in 
October 26, lHb4: ; was assij^ned to the 5th Reof. Reo-u- 
lar Infantry, was sent to Texas against the Comanche 
and Lepreau Indians; in 1857 was witii (leneral 
Harney, in Florida, engaged against the Seminoles, 
under Chief Billy Bowlegs. In the fall was ordered 
to Utah, against Brigham Voung and the Mormons. 
In 1859, with General Canby, was in New Mexico 
where he served twr) years against the Navajo Indi- 
ans. At the breaking out of tiie Rebellion was in 
Texas under General Sibley ; was promoted to Ser- 
geant Major of the Regiment; In 1864 appointed by 
the Secetary of War, Ordnance Sergeant in the 
United States Arm3% and placed in charge of the 
batteries at Long Point, Provincetown Haibor, He 
remained in charge of the batteries twelve years, 
when he was ordered to Fort Selden, New Mexico, 



62 
where he was stationed for two years. He was then 
sent to Standing Rock Agency, Dakota, and served 
there until 1885, when he was ordered to Fort Pre- 
ble, Me.; here he served for three months, when 
for long and faithful service in the United States 
Army, he was placed on the retired list of the Army ; 
when in Dakota, he helped organize the first G. A. 
R. Post in the territory, the George A. Custer Post, 
No. 1, was Inspector General of the department, and 
aid de Camp to the Department Commander. Resi- 
dence, Provincetown ; occupation, secretary of the 
Nickerson Oil Works Co., at Herring Cove. 

Thomas Lome born in Charlestown, Mass., 1830 ; 
entered the service as private in Company A, thirty- 
third Reg. Mass. Infantry, July 20th, 1862, was 
transferred to Company I, third Mass. Cavalry ; pro- 
moted to sergeant. Discharged at the close of the 
was as quarter-master sergeant May 20th, 186'). Res- 
idence, Provincetown ; occupation, keeper of Wood 
End Lighthouse. 

Hezekiah P. Hughes born in North Truro, 1838 ; 
entered the service as private July 28th, 1862 ; was 
assigned to Company A, thirty-third Reg. Mass. In- 
fantry ; was transferred to Company I, third Cavalry ; 
promoted to second Lieutenant. Discharged at ex- 
piration of service June 13th, 1865. Residence, 
Provincetown ; occupation, drj^ goods merchant. 

James A. Small born in Truro, Februay 14th, 



63 
1840; enlisted from Truro August 5th, 1862, as pri- 
vate, assigned to Company A, thirtj'-third Reg. 
Mass. Infantry ; transferred to the forty-first Reg. 
Infantry ; which was reorganized as third Cavalry ; 
promoted to sergeant major of Company I ; mustered 
out of service at Falls Church, Va., May 22nd, 1865. 
Residence, Provincetown ; occupation, grocer and 
ship chandler, and one of the board of selectmen. 

George O. Brown born in New Hampshire, 1846 ; 
enlisted as private in Company E, thirty-first Maine, 
Vol., September 19th, 1863. Discharged at expira- 
tion of service, September 20th, 1865. Residence, 
New Bedford, Mass. ; occupation, employe Old Col- 
ony Railroad. 

N. Frank Lane born in Wellfleet, 1842 ; enlisted 
as private and was assigned to Company D, Frontier 
Cavalry, December, 1864. Discharged July 16th, 
1865, by the disbandment of Company. Residence, 
Charlestown, Mass. ; occupation, employed in the 
Navy Yard in the sail-making department. 

Daniel McCrillis born in Boston August 9th 
1845 ; enlisted in 1863 for three years, or during the 
war, as private ; was assigned to first Mass. Veteran 
Cavalry Company B. Discharged at the close of 
the war ; was in active service at the '' Wilderness " 
fight and in the Shenandoah Valley under Gen. Sheri- 
dan till the surrender of Gen. Lee, and the close of 
the war. Residence, Wellfleet ; occupation, mariner. 



65 

Albert Taylor born in Yarmouth, Mass., 1842 ; 
entered the service February 23 J, 1864, in Compa- 
ny G, twenty-fourth Reg. Mass. Infantry, as private ; 
was wounded in the right arm, at Petersburg, Va. 
Discharged September 16th, 1865. Residence, 
Yarmouth ; occupation, laborer, and is a pensioner. 

Joseph W. Tuck born in Boston, September 8th, 
1824; entered the United States Navy as sailing 
master, commission dated August 14th, 1861 ; vvas 
assigned to the Colorado, afterwards transferred to 
the Commodore McDonahueas executive officer and 
subsequently placed in charge ; was present at both 
bombardments of Fort Sumter and at Stone Inlet ; 
assisted at the capture of the blockade-runner John 
C. Calhoun, alias Cuba, off South Pass, Mississippi 
River, and was put on board as Prize ^Master, brought 
the prize safely in ; was appointed Harbor Master, 
at Port Royal, S. C, which position he held until the 
close of the war. Discharged Dec. 15th, 1865. Res- 
idence, Provincetown ; occupation, retired. 

William F. Peirce born in Sandwich, 1841 ; enter- 
ed the service as seaman in the United States Navy 
August 17th, 1864. Discharged August 22d, 1865, 
by orders from Washington. Residence, Buzzards 
Bay ; occupation, employe Old Colony Railroad. 

Sumner Bragdon born in Boston, Januar}^ 8th, 
1839; mustered in as private July 20th, 1862, pro- 
moted to sergeant. Discharged as sergeant of Com- 



66 

paiiy I, third Mass. Cavalry, at the close of the war. 
May 20th, 1865. Residence, Provincetown ; occu- 
pation, mechanic. 

C. E. Stinchfield born in Brunswick, Me., 1841; 
mustered into service in Company I, eighth Me. Vol. 
September 7th, 1861 : mustered out at the expiration 
of service March 27th, 1866. Residence, Wellfleet ; 
occupation, shoe-maker. 

Isaiah Snow born in Truro, 1838 ; entered the ser- 
vice as private September 2nd, 1862 ; was assigned 
to Company E, forty-third Mass. Infantry. Dis- 
charged at expiration of service Julv 30th, 1863. 
Residence, Truro ; occupation, travelling salesman. 

Daniel Cole born in Wellfleet, Mass., March 26th. 
1844; enlisted at Quincy, Illinois, November 1st, 
1864, as private; was assigned to the twelfth Reg 
111. Infantry, Company K, fourth division, fifteenth 
Army Corps; was discharged at Louisville, Kentucky, 
July 10th, 1865. Took an active part in the cam- 
paign in Tennessee, under General Thomas ; was 
sent to Morehead City, N. C, actively engaged at 
the battle of Kingston, had gun shot out of his hand 
and equipments shot away, but not wounded. Sent 
to Gouldsboro, N. C, March 23d, 1865 ; remained 
with regiment until discharged ; was present at the 
general review of troops at the close of the 
war at Washington, D. C. Residence, Wellfleet ; 
occupation, keeper of Cahoon's" Hollow United 



67 
States Life Saving Station. 

E. C. Peck born in Groton, Vermont, May 29tli, 
1840 ; entered the service as private in Company K, 
third Vermont Infantry, June 20th, 1861 ; was pro- 
moted to a first Lieutenancy, thence to Captain of 
the Company. Discharged for disability brought on 
in the line of duty January 19th, 1862. Residence, 
Provincetown ; occupation, physician and surgeon. 

Charles G. Thompson born in Waternich, Sweden, 
1829 ; entered the service December 24th, 1863, in 
Company H, fifty-sixth Reg. Mass. Infantry. Dis- 
charged at expiration of service June 9th, 1865. 
Residence, Portland, Me. ; occupation, seaman. 

John Connelly born in Castle, Bellingham County, 
South Ireland, 1836 ; enlisted from this town and 
was mustered into service January 5th, 1864 ; 
assigned to Company B, third Mass. Cavalry ; pro- 
moted to corporal, and was mustered out at expira- 
tion of service September 26th, 1865. Died Novem- 
ber 23d, 1887, from lung disease, contracted while 
in the line of duty from exposure. Aged fifty-one 
years, leaving a widow, two sons and a daughter. 

Thomas V. Mullins born in Halifax, N. S., August 
11th, 1835, came here a mere lad and apprenticed 
himself to the blacksmith's trade ; enlisted Decem- 



68 

ber 25th, 1863, in Company H, fifty-sixth Reg. 
Mass. Vol. Infantry, as private. Discharged as cor- 
poral July 1, 1865 ; at expiration of service, was 
with the Army of the Potomac until the surrender 
of Lee. Present residence, Race Point, and keeper 
of the Light at that place. 



Note.— The Thirty-third Mass. Infantry was the regiment to whicli 
quite a number of Provincetown boys were af^tiigned upon enlistment; 
this regiment was made the Forty-first Infantry, and hiter on in the ser- 
vice was organized into the Third Cavalry. 

Note. — Since the manuscript has been finished up for the i)rinter, past 
Commander of the Post, Lieutenant George H. Nickerson has i)assed 
away to join his comrades. He died April 11th. 1890, of heart disease, 
leaving a widow and a little adopted daughter. The Post, in his death, 
also lose one that had done much for the success of that organization. 



RECORD OF PROVINCETOWN BOYS NOT MEMBERS 

OF THIS POST. 

Parron C. Paine enlisted in April, 1861, in the 
1st Reg. Mass. Vols. ; commissioned May 22d, 1861 ; 
mustered into service June 15th, 1861. It was the 
first three years Volunteer Regiment that reached 
Washington after passing through Baltimore on the 
ever memorable 17th of June, when the attack on 
the Northern troops was made, the anniversary of 
the battle of Bunker Hill. It was mnstered out of 
service. May 26th, 1864. Mr. Paine's residence is in 
Boston, and he holds a position in the Post Office 
Department. 



69 

Julin E. Smith enlisted in Proviiicetowu Jaiuuiiy 
2ik1, 1864:; wns assigned to Company H, fifty-sixth 
Mass. Vol. Reg., Col. Charles E. Griswold." Dis- 
charged at Readville, Mass., July 22d, 1865. This 
Regiment took an active part in the hard-fought 
battles of the ''Wilderness" from May 6th, to June 
17th. In August he was taken sick and sent to the 
hospital, at City Point, Va., from thence 
to New York. When he got well he returned 
to his Regiment at Fort Hayes, in front of 
Petersburgh, Va. At the opening of the spring 
campaign April 2d, lh65, he followed up 
Lee's army until the surrender on the 9th, after 
which, he was detailed as Clerk, at Regimental 
Head Quarters. There is certainly a mistake in the 
State Records of Mass. Vol. Soldiers, for the records 
say that he died of wounds, in a Philadelphia Hospi- 
tal ; when at present, he is alive and well at Borden- 
town, N. J. ; engaged in the photograph business. 

Rawlins T. Atkins born in Provincetown ; he- en- 
listed as private at the breaking out of the war, was 
assigned to the Mass. first Reg. Vol., was discharged 
as sergeant. He received a commission as second 
Lieutenant November 21st, 1863, and recruited a com- 
pany here which was attached to the fifty-sixth Reg. 
Mass. Vol. ; was promoted to first Lieutenant Jan- 
uary 21st, 1804, and discharged February 17th, 
1865, for disability. He at present is in the Soldiers' 
Home, at Togus, Maine. 



WRECK OF THE ENGLISH FRIGATE 
SOMERSET. 

About one mile westward from the Peaked Hill 
Life Saving Station, buried beneath the sands, lies 
the wreck of the English Frigate Somerset. A stone 
bound-mark has been placed near the spot, but the 
wreck lies buried some twenty feet in the sand. 
This vessel has a history intimately connected with 
Provincetown. Authentic records give the informa- 
tion that she was a third rate frigate, built in Chatham 
dock-yards, England, and launched July 18th, 1748, 
and carried sixty-four guns, thirtj^-two, eighteen, and 
twelve pounders. In 1774 she left England for tlie 
North American Station, returning to London in 1776- 
Left England again in 1777 to take an active part in 
the war of the Revolution ; was present at the bom- 
bardment of Charlestown, being stationed the third 
ship up the river in the line, and covered the landing 
of the British troops, when the battle of Bunker Hil} 
was fought. The poet Longfellow mentions the fact 
in one of his poems. Commanded by the notorious 
Capt. Bellamy, who took every means to annoy the 
people of the defenceless coast, she often made 



71 

a rendezvous in Provincetown harbor and levied on 
the people for supplies, and instead of paying 
for the same in money, would allow his chap- 
lain to come ashore Sundays and preach to 
the people, giving that as an equivalent for the eggs, 
butter and fish taken from the citizens Such was 
the dread of seeing the vessel that mothers would 
tell their refractory children that the frigate would 
carry them off if they did not mind their parents. 
Such threats would cause the most incorrigible to 
mind. The people here were entirely unprotected 
during the Revolution, and the English held complete 
sway over the place. At length, one day the citizens 
saw the frigate, which had been absent for some time, 
returning, chased by some French men-of-war. The 
wind was blowing heavy from the north, and the 
Somerset was trying to make this port for safety. 
Being unable to weather Race Point, in tacking ship, 
she miss-stayed and struck on the outer bar ; the 
French vessels seeing her ashore, fired a few shots at 
her, and tacking ship stood out to sea and safety. 
The beach was soon lined with the citizens, who 
tried to save the lives of her crew, with all the means 
that lay in their power, though they were their 
enemies. On board the ship, boats were launched, 
but they were dashed to pieces alongside, and those 
that were in them drowned. Guns, shot, and other 
heavy articles were thrown overboard, her masts, 



4t. 

72 

tliat had been broken off near the deck, were cut 
adrift, and finally, at high water, the strained and 
leaking hulk was driven, by the force of the wind 
aijd seas, over the bar aiid up on the shore, where 
those that were alive of her crew, were i-escued by 
the people, and held as prisoners of war. Word 
was sent to Truro and a company of Militia from 
that place, with a company here, under the com- 
mand of Captain Enoch Hallett, (jf Yarmouth, tocjk 
the prisoners to Harnstable, and thence to Boston, 
with the exception tjf one, whose history will be 
given further on. (.'(donel Abijah Doane, of Well- 
fleet, was ])Ut in charge of the wreck, but such wa& 
the feeling among the people on account of the treat- 
ment they had received, that almost every one tried to 
get what they could out of the wieck, to partially pay 
them for what tliey had previously been paid in preach- 
ing and prayers, that the laws of Mauni and Tiium were 
disregarded. After a while a sheriff was appointed 
to take charge and wliat material was saved a sal- 
vage was paid on. What few guns that were on 
board were landed and afterwards used in some of 
the fortifications along the coast. Fire was set to 
the hull, but only a small portion of the upper-works 
and deck were burned. After the hulk was aban- 
doned by the authorities, occasionally a beach-comb- 
er would try to get some of the ircjn-work, but in 
most cases they were poorly paid for their labor. 



73 

As the \ ears rolled by, the ever-shifting sands of the 
Cape buried her from sight. During the winter of 
'?S5 and ''^6, at a ver}^ high course of tides and a suc- 
cession of north-east gales prevailing, the beach was 
so cut away that a portion of the charred timbers 
and planking were exposed. For upwards of fifty 
years it had been buried, and tradition only told 
somewhere near the spot of the wreck, but there 
could be no mistake as to its identity ; those heavy, 
massive timbers and the six-inch planking of live 
oak \v\t\] portions charred by fire, the port-holes and 
general build told plainly that it was the almost for- 
gotten wreck of the Somerset, that had been lying 
there for over a century. For some months hund- 
reds of people visited the wreck and cartloads of 
timber, })lanking and iron bolts, more or less corro- 
ded by time and salt water, were taken from it and 
brought to town ; transformed into canes, vases, mod- 
els of vessels, watch charms, etc., as mementoes of the 
craft. By digging the sand away a large portion of 
of the hull was laid bare. Gunpowder and wedges 
tore the planking and timbers apart, but work coidd 
only be carried on at low water, the incoming tide 
would wash in the sand, and all the digging would 
have to be done over again. Finally, ilie beach shore 
began to make out again, and soon the old hulk was 
buried from sight, there to remain till the ever-shifting 
sands of the Cape, perhaps in a century more, dis- 



74 

close her again ; beach grass is growing over her and 
she lays some distance from high water mark. In Pil- 
grim Hall, Plymouth, is a large block of wood which 
was formerl}^ one of her bitt heads ; it is about four- 
teen inches square, with the holes where the main- 
stays went through; it is clear from rot and almost 
as hard and firm as iron. A citizen of this place 
presented it, with a short description of the wreck, 
for which he w^as rewarded by a diploma from the 
Pilgrim Societ}'. The date of her wreck was Nov- 
ember 3d, 1778. Parties can be found that can show 
the exact location of the wreck at the present time 
to visitors, souveniers, articles of various shape and 
form made from the wood, can be found in almost 
every store in the place, they are authentic and can 
be had at very reasonable prices. Mention has been 
made of one of her ciew, that was not taken to 
Boston with the rest of the surviving crew. The 
ship's surgeon. Dr. William Thayer, was paroled and 
stayed here, to give aid to the people ; he practiced 
both here, and in the ajoining town of Truro. 
In one of his visits to that place, he became acquaint- 
ed with one Susan Rich, which ripened into love and 
they were married, the Doctor taking up his abode 
in Truro. To this couple four daughters were born, 
Anna, who married Reuben Rich, Wellfleet ; Phebe, 
who married Elisha Newcomb, of Truro ; Susan, 
who married Simon Hopkins, of Wellfleet and 



I 



75 

Rachel, who was never married. (3f the three first, 
there are direct descendants living here and in Truro 
to-day. These records are authentic, having been 
received from a direct descendant. 




REMAINS OF THE S03IEBSET BY 3100MJ(iHT. 



LONG POINT. 

This narrow strip of sand which forms the extreme 
end of Cape Cod was at one time quite thickly set- 
tled, there being thirty-eight families residing there 
permanently. The first building that was put up 
there was built by John Atwood, and occupied No- 
vember, 1818. Prince Freeman, Jr., built the second, 
and Eldridge Smith the third. The nearness to the 
fishing grounds, and the abundance of fish that 
could be taken from the shore induced many faniilies 
to locate there. Prince Freeman, Jr., now living. 
was the first child born on the Point : he was bom 
November 7th, 1822. 

When the scliool-house was built in 1846, there 
were sixty scholars attended, and the inhabitants num- 
bered over two hundred. The adult population were 
engaged in fishing, and the manufacture of salt. 
Eldridge Nickerson built the first set of works, 
which comprised about three thousand feet : others 
were built, and at one time there were six mills for 
pumping wiiter for about seven or eight thousand feet 
of works, with an annual out-put of between five 
and six hundred hogsheads of extra quality of salt. 



78 

Fishing from the shoie was carried on extensive- 
ly with sweep seines, catching plenty of mackerel 
and shad ; bass also were taken in large numbers. 
As many as seventy-five barrels of white shad have 
been brought ashore there at one haul ; Mr. John 
Atwood caught that many, three years in succession, 
and on the same day of the month. These fish 
brought a good price, selling for sixteen dollars a 
barrel of two hundred pounds; the seines were all 
knit by hand ; the women, for the most part, did the 
knitting. There were over twenty Ijoats engaged in 
cod-fishing, and they would take from forty to sixty 
quintals'to a boat during the spring season ; there 
was no fresh water on the point, plank cisterns were 
laid and afterwards some were made of cement. 
During along ja'otracted drouth, the drinkable water 
had to be brought from the town in barrels. 

The first school that was kept there, was kept in 
the lighthouse, about 1830; there were only three 
children, who were taught by ]Miss Hannah Sanborn, 
who afterwards married Deacon John Dyer, a well- 
known citizen, who was a mover of buildings, and 
moved about all of the buildings from the Point 
over to the town. John Atwood built a wharf on 
the north side of the point, which is standing to-day, 
used by the Cape Cod Oil Works, the only buildings 
now left excepting the lighthouse. 

About the year 1850, some families moved off, and 



79 
each year increased the number so that at the break- 
ing out of the Rebellion, there were but two houses 
left, besides the school-house, which was also used as 
a church, preachers from the town coming over occa- 
sionally Sundays and holding service. 

The ruins of two sand batteries that were put up 
durino' the wiir of '61 — '65 are still to be seen ; a com- 
pany of soldiers were stationed there, under the 
charge of John Rosenthal, who had the officers head 
quarters in the last dwelling house left on the Point. 
The men were quartered in barracks built for the 

occasion. 

Nearly all of the houses were moved on scows 

and were placed at the western end of the town, 
near what is now called Gull Hill. About the last 
building was the school-house, which now stands on 
Commercial Street, a few doors east of the Post 
Office. 

Government now lays claim to all the lands on 
the Point ; some attempts have been made by those 
that once lived there to get pay for the land they 
left, but no one has succeded as yet. No industry 
is carried on there but the Cape Cod Oil Works, and 
no fish of any amount have been taken there for 
many years, except a few cod off Wood End Light- 
house. 



THE WHALING BUSINESS. 



INCIDENTS AND ANECDOTES OF THE BUSINESS. 

DESCRIPTION OF WHALES 

AND WHALING. 



Tlie wlialiug business of this place, that at one 
time was second in importance of any place ^\•he^e 
tlie husii.ess was carried on, has fallen off so that 
at present there are but seven vessels employed. 
In tlie early settlement of the place, whaling- was 
carried on from the shore by boats. Right v/hales 
then used used to visit this harbor, but it has l)een 
many years since one was taken here. As the whales 
became scarce, vessels were fitted out, and tl:e indus- 
try grew until a fieet of fifty-six vesseLs, — barques^ 
brigs, and schooners, — went from this port. The 
most of the officers, and some of the crew were cit- 
izens of the place. The sperm whale was the one 
most sought for, on account of its oil being of more 
value than an}' other specie. The sjicrmaceti whale, 
or sperm, as they are called by whalemen, are the 
highest type of the cetacean. Their oil is of the 



81 
finest kind, iind brings the highest price of any in 
the market. The sperm is the only whale having 
teetli, and those are only In the lower jaw ; in the 
upper jaw there are cavities, into which the teeth fit 
snugly when the jaw is closed. These teeth are fine 
ivory, but do not command a great price in the mar- 
ket only as curiosities, for they will discolor with age, 
whicli unfits them for use in any of the arts for 
which ivory is employed. The habitat of this specie 
of whale, in the North Atlantic Ocean, is on the 
coast of Central America, the borders of the Gulf 
Stream, on what is called Hatterras and Charleston 
Grounds, off Cape DeVerde Islands and several other 
places in the North Atlantic, known to whale-men 
as the Cornell, Twelve-forty, etc. The principal 
food of this whale is the squid or cuttle fish, that 
are plenty in the warm waters of these grounds. 
The yield of oil in a full-grown whale will be about 
one hundred barrels; from one-third to one-half will 
be contained in the head. One peculiarity of this 
specie is the case, so called. This is a cavity in the 
head, from which clear oil is bailed with buckets, 
amounting sometimes to twelve or fifteen barrels. 
This makes the best of oil, and only requires heating 
so that it will not become rancid. The junk, which 
is the huge cheeks and lips, yield oil very freely, 
and as they are part of the head are counted as such. 
These whales are not, as a general thing, much for 



82 

fighting, seeking safety rather in flight, but occasion- 
ally a lone bull, that has been driven out of the 
school or herd, is fallen in with, and his ugly disposi- 
tion, made more sour and morose by the want of 
companionship, makes him an ugly customer to deal 
with, often charging on the boat and crushing it like 
an egg-shell with his ponderous jaw, leaving the 
whalemen minus boat and gear and lucky if they 
escape with their lives. 

A story is often told, by old whalemen, of a whale 
of this kind, who was well known by old veterans 
by the name of Moby Dick, who made his home and 
cruising ground off the west coast of South America. 
Nearly every New Bedford and Nantucket whaler 
had had an encounter with him, and were worsted in 
the battle, Dick always coming off conqueror, until 
as last no one cared to risk an engagement with him. 
When the explosive bomb lance was invented, an 
old Nantucket skipper, who had suffered severely in 
several encounters with Dick, swore that he would 
have revenge, and the bomb lance was just the thing 
to do it with. Accordingly, laying in a good stock 
of the article, sailed on his voyage to the Pacific. 
Arriving at Talcuhano, Chili, a great rendezvous for 
whalers, he there fell in with some of his old chums, 
and told them that he was going to capture Dick, if 
he did not get another whale. His comrades laughed 
and tried to dissuade him, but the old veteran was 



83 
not to be bluffed. Sailing, he soon reached the 
whaling-grounds, and for a long time cruised with- 
out seeing Dick, and he began to fear that the whale 
had left the grounds or had died, and he would lose 
his revenge. One bright, sunny morning, the look- 
out at the mast-head sung out, ''There she blows!" 
'^Where away? ^'Broad on the lee bow." The ship 
was kept oft' before the wind, and run down towards 
the whale, when it was soon discovered to be the 
long sought for Moby Dick. The boats were lowered, 
whale-guns and bomb lances were placed in them, 
and everything made ready for the battle. The 
whale paid no attention to the boats, so the captain 
pulled up close to him, and instead of fastening in 
the usual manner, fired a bomb lance into him. This 
new specie of warfare, seemed to take the whale by 
surprise, as it was something new to him, but his 
aggressive nature asserted itself, and he charged upon 
the boat with his usual fury. The mate's boat com- 
ing to the rescue, fired another shot, which took his 
attention from the captain, and the mate was charged 
upon, to be relieved in turn by the captain. This 
kind of warfare was kept up, and when seven lances 
had been shot into him, every one of which took 
effect, he rolled fin out, — dead. Brought alongside 
and stripped of his blubber, but a small quanity of 
oil was made. In whalemen's language, he was 
what is called a '' Dry Skin." Twenty-three har- 



84 

pooDS were found imbedded in his flesh, bearing tlje 
names of eighteen different vessels, showing who 
had been in engagements with him. The other five 
were so corroded by time, that it was impossible to 
decipher the marks on them. The largest whale of 
this specie ever known to be taken, was by the bark 
Wave, of New Bedford, Capt Briggs, which made one 
hundred and sixty-five barrels, fifteen gallons of 
oil. Capt. Wm. Curran, of this place, took one 
that made one hundred and fifteen barrels, and lost 
the entire head and junk ; had all been saved it would 
doubtless have been as large, if not larger, than the 
one taken by the Wave. 

AMBERGRIS. 

A valuable secretion is found in this specie of 
whale, called Ambergris. This is found in hard 
bunches in the whale's intestines ; it is of a dark choc- 
olate color, and in most cases the specific gravity is 
greater than water, though there are cases where it 
has been known to float. It is one of the best 
known articles, as a base on which to fix perfumes, 
and is largely used in France for that purpose. A 
good article is worth more than its weight in gold, 
or at present prices about two hundred dollars a 
pound. It has a strong pungent odor, but by no 
means unpleasant. Its formation is not fully known, 
but is supposed in some way to be connected with 
the food this specie eats. The short, sharp bills of 



85 

the iii{uk\ or cuttle fish irritating the bowels, causing 

this fungus growth. It is most frequently found in 

whales caught off the coast of Central America, 

where the squid are of small size. It is generally 

found in lumps weighing from five to fifteen pounds; 

occasionally, though the cases are very rare, pieces 

have been found weighing as much as one hundred 

pounds. 

A LOST FORTUNE. 

Schooner Monteguma, of this place, while engaged 
in sperm whaling on the Mosquito Coast, Central 
America, killed a large sperm whale. In ''cutting 
in '" the whale, the spade struck a hard substance, 
which upon further investigation proved to be a large 
piece of ambergris, somewhat larger than a quarter 
barrel, and judged to weigh over one hundred pounds. 
The wind was blowing heavy at the time, and the 
sea rough ; all hands were excited over the find and 
due precaution was not taken to secure it ; in haul- 
ing it on board the vessel it slipped from the slings, 
and falling between the whale and vessel, slowly 
sank from sight in sixty fathoms of water. At the 
price of the article at that time, the crew had the 
mortification of seeing over twenty-five thousand 
dollars sink slowly from their possession. A dead 
whale drifted ashore on one of the West India Is- 
lands. A negro at work on the whale found a small 
piece; he had heard of ambergris but knew nothing 



86 

of its real value. Saving it, he offered it for sale to 
a trader, who generously (?) gave him a suit of thin 
dungaree clothes, and a five-doUar gold piece, the 
negro congratulating himself on his lucky find. 
The trader, wlien he returned to the states, realized 
the sum of one thousand dollars on his harofain. 




A H>-|{A(K WHALE. 

The wliale shown above was one of tlie largest of 
the Finback species ever taken here. It was killed 
b}^ Captain Joshua S. Nickerson, in the whaling sch. 
A. B. Nickerson, and measured sixty-five feet, four 
inches in length ; across the tail tourteen feet, six 
inches : lengtli of lower jaw, eleven feet ; 
length of fins, ten feet ; girth, thirty-seven feet; 
estimated weight, one hundred and thirty-six tons; 



87 
capacity of mouth, when closed, thirty Ijarrels. Some 
idea of its imense size can be formed by noticing the 
two men and dog that are on it. It was sold to a 
Chicago syndicate ; special cars were made to trans, 
port it, and it was taken through the western 
country on exhibition. Captain Newton P. West 
going as descriptive lecturer. This engraving was 
made from a photograph taken on the beach at low 
water, and gives a true and correct picture of this 
great cetacean. 

THE RIGHT WHALE. 

There are several species of this whale and some 
of them grow to an enormous size, being the largest 
specimens of known animal life, weighing upwards 
of 100 tons, and yielding in known instances three 
hundred pounds of oil. The one most sought after 
is the bow-head or Arctic whale, who makes his home 
and cruising grounds in the far North, up Behring 
Sea, and near Wrangel Land. The season for taking 
this whale is short, rarely extending over six weeks. 
Nature has provided them with a thick coat of blub- 
ber to withstand the rigors of the Arctic climate, and 
it is no uncommon occurrence to kill a whale where 
the thickness of the blubber is two feet and up- 
wards. This whale also furnishes the best article of 
the whale bone of commerce which readily sells in 
the market for two dollars per pound. This whale 



88 

has 1)0 teeth, but tlie mouth is furnished with hirge 
plates of this bone, twelve to fourteen feet in length, 
and two feet and over in breadth where it is attached 
to the jaw. A whale yielding one hundred barrels 
of oil, will have about one thousand pounds of bone ; 
this bone around tlie edge lias a long coarse fiber, by 
which the whale obtains its food. Swimming 
through the water with open mouth, it takes in im- 
mense quantities of small slirimp and other animal- 
culee, called whale feed ; it then closes the moutli and 
ejects the water, the long fibers retaining the 
food collected, which is then taken off by the tongue 
and conveyed to the stomach ; the amount that a 
whale will eat is immense, and can only be estimated 
b}^ barrels. These whales are not fighters, and there 
is no sport nor great danger in capturing them ; very 
rarely an accident happens, and then it is due more 
to carelessness and mismanageuient of the boat, then 
from an}' design on the part of the whale to inflict 
an injury. VVIjen struck with the harpoon, the 
whale will run slowly for a short distance and then 
stop ; the boats crew haul in the lire, bringing the 
boat right up against him, the officer then, with hand 
lance, probes the whale in its vital parts ; the whale, 
with head raised out of water, uttering a loud groan- 
ing noise, and showing no disposition to defend it- 
self. It finally dies, and in the death agony a boat 
is sometimes injured by being too near him. The 



89 
ship is then brought alongside, and the huge strips 
of blubber taken off and stowed below in the blub- 
ber room ; the bone taken out of the mouth, the 
carcass is then turned adrift to become food for shark, 
and tlie innumerable sea fowl that inhabit the Arc- 
tic regions. This whale is also found on the west 
coast of Greenland, and in Hudson's Bay,, up an inlet 
called Rowe's Welcome ; vessels engaged in this 
branch of whaling, often remaining out two seasons, 
wintering in some of the harbors, the vessel being 
stripped of sails, and rigging housed over, and bank- 
ed up with snow ; the crew spending the long winter 
night in idleness, the monotony onl}- being broken by 
an occasional reindeer or bear hunt, or a visit from 
the Esquimaux natives. For weeks the sun does 
not rise above the horizon, but upon its return, all 
is activity and bustle, getting the ship out of winter 
quarters, and fitting up for the short season of whal- 
ing, urged on by the thoughts of soon returning 
home with a good catch of oil to pay for their forced 
absence and hardships endured. Many Arctic ex- 
plorers like Tyson Hall, and others, obtained their 
Arctic knowledge on board of a New Bedford or 
New London whaler, thus fitting them to be the 
most successful explorers in the far distant North. 
The long sought North-west passage was first known 
to exist by the capture of a whale on the west coast 
of Greenland, a harpoon being found imbedded in 



90 

the flesh, bearing a ship's name that was known to be 
at that time, off the Alaskan Coast. The flesh of 
the whale is eaten by the natives, and though 
coarse, it resembles lean beef in texture and taste, 
when taken from a newly-killed whale. The natives 
of Greenland, pickle the outer cuticle or skin, and it 
is very palatable, and an excellent antiscorbutive. 
Portions of the fins and tail, when boiled in salt and 
water, make a toothsome dish, and one not to be 
despised by epicures, the flavor resembling some- 
what soused pigs' feet. To the poor Greenlander 
and Esquimaux, the whale is a perfect godsend ; 
utilizing every part ; the oil serves to warm their 
huts during the long winter, taking the place of 
wood and coal, the flesh is eaten, lines and ropes 
made of the sinews, the intestines scraped and 
cleansed, are used in lieu of glass to let light into 
their huts. If one or more whales are not taken dur- 
ing the season, it amounts to almost a famine in 
the little community, and great hardships have to be 
endured during the long winter to obtain food from 
the seal and bear. 

THE HUMPBACK WHALE. 

This specie seems to be the connecting link be- 
tween the sperm and the right whale, partaking of 
of some of the qualities of each. The oil is not so 
valuable as the sperm, nor the bone as good as the 
right whale ; still they are much hunted around the 



91 

West India Islands, where they are most abundant. 
Unlike other whales, they do not go in herds or 
schools, but in pairs, unless the calf or young are 
present. Like all other cetacean, the young are born 
alive, and suckled till able to provide for themselves. 
One young is only brought forth at a birth ; the 
period of gestation is not known. The principle 
places in the West India Islands where this whale is 
hunted, are Marie Galante, Guadaloupe, Isle Blanco 
and around Barbadoes. Short-voyage vessels, from 
Frovincetown and other ports, hunt the whale in the 
early spring, from February till June ; then leaving 
for the sperm whale grounds to finish the season. 
. When a whale is killed by one of the vessels, near 
one of the Islands, the negros flock on board in num- 
bers eager to get the whale beef, and many a captain 
has filled his decks full of oranges, bananas and co- 
coanuts in exchange for whale meat ; occasionally a 
humpback will sink when killed, and the sharks are 
so plenty in that warm climate, that the whaleman 
lose their whale, it being eaten so badly that it would 
not come to the surface. When cutting in a whale, 
a man has to stand in the gangway with a sharp 
spade to keep the sharks away, they are so abun- 
dant ; if the whale should be left alone it would soon 
be eaten, all but the bones ; occasionally a humpback 
whale is seen north of the Gulf Stream and along 
the coast of New England, but the cases are rare. 



92 

THE whale's enemies. 

Though the largest thing that swims the ocean, 
the whale is by no means king, and man is not the 
only one that preys upon the whale. The sword- 
fish, who is the John L. of the sea, delights in at- 
tacking the whale, plunging his long, sharp sword 
again and again into the whale's body ; unable to pro- 
tect itself, the whale is killed. Why the sword-fish 
should make this onslaught on the wliale is a mystery, 
as the sword-fish cannot eat any part of the whale, 
and it must be done purely out of spite, and a wish 
to destroy. Not so with the thresher or killer, 
another of the whale's enemies, who will liover 
around the whale, watching for a chance when he 
comes to the surface to blow or breath ; the killer 
will then throw himself on top of the whale, and 
strike heavy blows with his tail over tlie spout hole, 
thus smothering the whale, which dies of suffocation. 
The killer then feasts eagerh* on the tongue, touch- 
ing no other part, leaving the rest to the sharks, — 
scavengers of the deep. 

anecdotes and incidents. 

Of whales attacking vessels and inflicting serious 
damage there are but three known instances. The 
ship Essex, off the west coast of South America, the 
Am. Alexander, off the mouth of the Rio De La 
Plata, both of which are a matter of history and the 
incidents have been published many times. The 



98 

other instance we believe was never printed, which 
was the case of the barque Parker Cook, of Province- 
towii, Mass., Caj)t. John Cook. This vessel was 
cruising off the Azores or Western Islands and struck 
a large, lone sperm whale, which [)roved to be an 
ugly customer and showed fight. After demolishing 
the boats it attacked the vessel and, rushing towards 
the vessel with open mouth, bit the forefoot clean to 
the wood ends of the planking, causing the vessel 
to leak badly. Apparently satisfied with the dam- 
age done, it then left the vessel, and layed by about 
a fourth of a mile to windward of the ship. Capt. 
Cook patched up one of his boats and, notwithstand- 
ing the second mate had lost a leg in the encounter 
and the rest of the crew more or less demoralized^ 
again went for the whale and killed him ; after cutting 
him in, the vessel was put for Fayal, Azores, and by 
pumping and bailing, was kept afloat till she reached 
the port. Upon examination, it was found that 
only about one-lialf inch of wood was left forward, 
where the damage was done. Had that been re- 
moved the vessel would have gone to the bottom. 
The whale made about ninety barrels of oil. 

A NARROW ESCAPE. 

Mr. Franklin Atkins, a veteran in the whaling 
business from Provincetown, while engaged in 
sperm whaling near the West India Islands, fastened 
to a large sperm whale. The whale struck the boat 



94 
with his flukes, thvowiDg it up into the air aiid spill- 
ing out the crew. When Mr. Atkins fell, he struck 
directly into the whale's mouth, which was lying with 
the jaw open. Terribly bruised and mangled by 
falling on the wliale's teeth, he fortunately extricated 
himself before the jaw closed ; he then managed with 
much exertion to get on to the botton of the boat, 
which was badly shattered. Anotlier boat came to 
theia^ relief, and he was taken on board and his 
wounds, which were frightful, were attended to- 
For four weeks he lay in a very critical condition, 
and at times his life was despaired of, but a strong, 
healthy constitution enabled him to pull through, but 
he carried many a large scar from the effects, on his 
back and side, till the day of his death. Had the 
jaw closed when he was iu the whale's mouth, he 
would have been crushed to pieces. The whale was 
finally captured, and yielded nearly a hundred barrels 
of oil. The old gentleman in his declining years 
after retiring from the sea, in relating the adventure 
would close his Uile by saying that, ''He and Jonah 
were the only two persons that had been into a 
whale's mouth and come out alive." 

A ludicrous incident happened to a boat's crew, 
engaged in humpback whaling near the Spanish 
Main. A whale was struck, and capsizing the boat, 
one of the crew landed on the back of the whale, 
close to the harpoon, which was in the whale's flesh. 



95 

The man, through excitement and fright at his situ- 
ation, grabbed firmly hold of the staff. The whale 
instead of sounding, swam quickly off with the man 

clinging on to his back ; the whale had cleared itself 
from the boat, but was dragging the line after it. 
After it had swam a short distance, it turned and 
came back near the vessel, the man during the mean- 
time still keeping his seat on the whale's back. A 
boat pulled up to within a short distance, the man 
then struck out and swam to the boat, carrying the 
line which was fast to the harpoon with him, and the 
whale was finally killed. True and authentic anec- 
dotes like the foregoing could be related without 
number, but enough has already been said to show 
the public some of the dangers connected with 
the business. The whaling business was, at one time, 
one of the principal industries of New England. 
Large fleets of ships, barques, schooners were engag- 
ed, and no place in either of the three great oceans, 
but was visited by these vessels in search for whales. 
Nantucket (at one time mistress of the seas in that 
business) wharves are now silent, and not a vessel 
sails from the place. New Bedford, now the largest 
whaling port, has not over one-fifth of the tonnage 
employed that it had in the palmy days. Province- 
town, that had at one time fifty-six barques, brigs 
and schooners, now numbers only seven, and Edgar- 
town, Mattapoisett, New London and Sag Harbor, 



96 

collectively, send but few vessels. The discovery of 
petroleum, and other causes have al)out ruined the 
industry. And the hardy, old whaleman, that has 
endured the heat of the torrid, and the extreme cold 
of the Arctic zores, will soon be numbered with tlie 
things that have passed away. The Civil War was 
also a great damage to the business. Confederate 
cruisers capturing and burning a large number of 
the vessels in the North-west and Ochotsk seas, some 
of which were taken after the war closed. 

VESSELS EMPLOYED. 

The name and tonnage of the whaling fleet from 
this port at present are as follows: 

KUi. >AJIE. <nV>EK. T()>>A<JK. 

Brig. D. A. Small. Wm. Curran. IVS.'^S tons net. 
Schr. ('arrie D. Knowles. 

George O. Knowles. llo 09 " 

Schr. Alcyone. George O. Knowles. 87.61 " " 
Schr. Gage H. Phillips. 

George O. Knowles. 101.37 " " 

Schr. Baltic. Emmons Dyer. 80.5 " " 

Schr. Wm. A. Grozier. 

John Dunham. 111.09 "' *' 

Schr. Rising Sun. Thomas Taylor. 6o.99 " " 

These vessels are mostly engaged in the sperm 
whale buisness, and hardly ever fit for more than one 
season. The Captain and most of tlie <jfficers are from 
this place, while tlie crews are mostly negros from 
the West India or Cape DeVerd Islands. 



COD-FISHING. 

One oi the most iinportaiit iiiclustries of this place 
is the cocl-fishiiig. Pi;obably no branch of fishing 
has gone through so many changes as this. In the 
early days the vessels were small, some of them pink, 
or sharp sterns carrying only about five or six hun- 
dred quintals of fish, and making two trips a season, 
which generall}^ lasted from iMarch to October. The 
fishing in those days was all done with hand lines 
and the crew fished from the vessel, standing watch 
and fishing half and half, one part catching while 
the others dressed the fish. The crews in those days 
were mostly citizens of the place and each man was 
paid according to the amount of fish he caught. 
The business, however, was carried on on a very small 
scale at first, but in the early part of this century it 
had grown to be, next to whaling, the chief industry 
of the place. The war of 1812 and ' 14 was a check 
to the business, but after peace was declared it was 
pursued with renewed activity. Some of our older 
citizens, to-day, remember when the Welcome Return, 
Widow Wadman, Yazo, Bion, North Cape, Abba- 
thule, and the old Billy Gray were crack vessels of 



98 

the fleet. It is told of the Billy Gray tliat in com- 
ing home from the Labrador with a load of fish, dur^ 
ing a heavy gale of wind the schooner was drugged 
by putting an anchor over the stern and riding out 
the gale in tliat wa}', never shipping a drop of water. 
The reason the crew did so, was because the vessel 
was so much sharper aft that she rode the seas better. 
There has been no great change in the hand- 
ling of the fish after the vessel has returned home 
with a fare. The fish are brought ashore in boats, 
and thrown into the water wliere they are washed, 
and then spread on flakes to dry Some, however, 
at present are put into l)utts with a strong brine or 
pickle, which are called j)ickle-cured fisli. Tlie 
first decided change in the business was the intro- 
duction of dory fisliing, each one of the crew hav- 
ing a dory and pulling away from the vessel, anchor 
and fish with hand lines. Old experienced fisher- 
men claim, to-day, that a fare of fish could not l»e 
taken in the old way from, the vessel. Ti-awls were 
also used on the banks, which fr)r the benefit of the 
uninitiated I will say, means a long line, in some in- 
stances over one mile in length, with iKoks fastened 
to short lines about three feet lono-, and fastened to 
the long line at equal distances, — about six feet 
apart. The expense of this mode of fishing has 
caused the almost total abandonment of it in the 
Grand Bank fishery. During the war of the Rebel- 



99 




3IAKI>« FISH, MILLIARD'S WHARF. 

lion, this industry made a rapid stride onward ; the 
high price of fish during those years, and the years 
immediately following gave the industry such a boom 
that it was known as the " flush times." New and 
larger vessels were built, and crews numbering be- 
tween twenty and thirty men were carried. Dry 
fish sold for five and six dollars a quintal, and in 
some instances for seven dollars and upwards. The 
captain and owners of the vessels would assume all 
the risk and ship crews, paying them from two hun- 
dred to as high as five hundred dollars a man, ac- 
cording to his known qualities as a fisherman. The 
fleet, at present, engaged in this industry, is composed 
of some of the finest vessels afloat and from one 



100 
hundred and twenty up to nearly two luuidred tons 
burden. They sail in April and May, returning 
about September. The crews are all liired, the cap- 
tain, and sometimes the owners, assumino- tlie risk 
of the voyage. If there should be a scarcity of fish 
or prices rule low, the summer's work would be a 
failure, and the coming year would see a depression 
in the crew's wages. The year 1889, was an excep- 
tionally poor year, and but one vessel, the Cora S. 
McKay, succeeded in getting anywhere near a fare 
of fish. But very few got over half a fjire, while 
the majority did not get but some few hundred quin- 
tals. There are, at present, forty-one vessels en- 
gaged in the Grand Bank fishery, which are owned 
and managed by the following persons: Of this 
fleet, two are three-masters, Lizzie W. Matheson, 
one hundred and ninety-three tons burden, owned 
by H. and S. (\)ok & Co. : (xrace F. Littleton, one 
hundred and sixty-nine tons burden, owned by Phil- 
lip A. Wharf. Owners: William Matheson, eight 
vessels ; Henry Cook, six ; P. A. Whorf, six ; David 
Con well, four ; S. S. Swift, four ; John D. Hilliard, 
three ; J. & L. N. Paine, three ; John B. Matheson, 
two; the remaining five are each one owned and 
managed by a different party. Owing to tlie rapid 
growth of the fresh fishing industry, and the facili- 
ties for keeping the fish fresh for some length of 
time so that they can be shipped to all parts of the 



101 

States, the salt fishery lias faileii cff gi-eatly, the 
market for them being in a great measiire limited 
to foreign exportation. The fresh fishing industry 
has thirty-three vessels that belong here, and the 
larger part of them fish the whole year round, 
with the exception of a short time during mid-win- 
ter, when they liaul off to paint and refit for the work. 
The majority of the captains and crews of these 
vessels are Portugese citizens from the Western Is- 
lands. The owners of the fieet are as foUow^s : Cen- 
tral Wharf Co., five vessels; Joseph Maiita, five; 
fJohn Adams, three ; Joseph Matthews, three ; David 
Conwell, two; Charles A. Cook, two; Andrew T. 
Williams, two ; P. A. Whorf, two ; the remaining 
ten vessels are owned singly, either by the ca[)tain 
or not belonging to any firm. In this tieet there are 
some crack sailers that have made their mark, and 
a record. The I. J. Merritt, Julia (\)sta, Isaac 
Collins and Joseph I*. Johnson are among the most 
noted. The fishing fleet from tliis place is not large, 
but for quality of vessels there is no place in the 
State that has any better. Besides the number of 
fresh fishermen mentioned here, there are, at present, 
eight vessels from other places sailing from here, 
commanded and manned by Provincetown men. This 
fleet cruise from the South Channel, off Nantucket, 
to Cape Sable on the Nova Scotia shore ; the time 
taken on these trips rarely extends over two weeks. 



102 
When the fisli diaw in off the Cape here, some ([iiick 
trips have been ina<le. One of the most notable 
was that of the Jnh"a (yosta. Captain Costa, whicli 
sailed from this port at six o'clo(3k in the mornino-, 
sailed to the fishing^ oTonnds about fifteen miles 
north-east of the Hio'hland Lio^ht. eauGfht fifteen 
thousand pounds of cod-fish, cUid was in Boston, at 
the wharf at eleven o'clock that nicrht ; havinof sailed 
about one liundred miles in the mean time. A great 
deal of ronoh weather is experienced by these 
vessels, but the fieet since this has been an industry 
here, has been exceptionally free tVom meeting with 
disaster. 



I 



HIGHFLYERS OF THE FRESH-FISHING 
FLEET. 




I. .1. 3It'rritt. Jr., from a Photo Itj >V. }l. Siuitli ;is slif n|)|)(>ar('<l in the race 

Fast-day. isss. 

The I. J. Merritt, Jr., as she appeared ill the fisher- 
man's race, Fast Day, 1888, and took second prize, 
commanded by Capt. Charley Harty, of Gloucester. 
She competed with Carrie Phillips, Carrie Habson 
and Roulette. She is now owned by John Adams 
and others, and commanded by Capt. Souza. 



/ 




Jiiliii ( osta, iiassiiiti: Miintt's LiulitliouNO. troiii a iihototfrapli by Wni. M. Smith. 

'i1)e Julia Costa is owueel by (^apt. Josepli Maiita ; 
she was built for ('apt. Costa. She was ihe first of 
the elii)per fleet to e(Uiie hei'e. In the fisherman's 
race before nieutioued, l*roviucetowii was uot rei)re- 
seuted. Capt. Mauta had this vessel designed and 
built, intending if another race took place, to have 
entered in the contest. A record of her doings on a 
trip will be louiid in another place. 



THE OLD TOWN HALL. 




OLD TOWN HALL, FROM AN OLD PICTURE. 

This building was erected on High Pole Hill, and 
was a conspicious landmark, it could be seen from a 



106 

vessel's deck nearly half-way to Boston Light. In 
1853 the town bouoht wliat was known as Hio^h 
Pole Hill from Godfrey Kyder, Jonatlian Cook, Asa 
S. Bowley, Philip Cook, Seth Kickerson, 2d, Joseph 
Atkins, Samuel Chapman, for the sum of three hund- 
red and fifty doHars. The deed was recorded June 
9th, 1853. The next year the top of tlie hill was 
cut down some feet, and the buikling put up at a 
cost of nearly fifteen thousand dollars. The up[)er 
part of the building was used for a High School. 
On Feb. 16, 1877, at 8.25 P. M. it was burned to the 
ground : the origin of the fire was never known : 
various theories were set afloat, but nothing ever 
definate was arrived at. Situated as it was and 
beinof built larp-elv of hard idne, every effort of the 
firemen was of no avail and the building was a total 
loss. The only memento ever put in this place to 
record the landino- of the Pilo^rims here, was a mar- 
ble tablet set in the front of the building : this was 
destroyed "by tlie fire. 

THE NEW TOWN HALL. 
This building was commenced Sept. 10. 188-", 
and dedicated August 25, 1886, with imposing 
ceremonies, Gov. Robinson and other noted State 
officials being present. Rev. William Henry Ryder, 
a former citizen of this place, but now desceased, 
generously gave the homestead place for the site, 
but the town officials not deeming it large enough 



107 
took the two adjoining estates, Dr. Ryder paying for 
all the land taken. The cost of the building was 
•^=50,400. John A. Fox, of Boston, architect; William 
J. Jobling, contractor and builder ; Samuel C. John- 




NEW TOWN HALL, FROM A PHOTO. BY WM. M. SMITH. 

son, master carpenter; Alfred Small, superintendent 
of building. The building committee were Marshall 
L. Adams, Charles H. Dyer, B. O. Gross, Atkins 



• 108 

Nickersoii, James A. Small, John D. Hilliard, 
George O. Knowles, Alfred Small. The first 
three names were the board of selectmen at tlie 
time. This building throughout is built in the very 
best manner, and is the finest structure of tlie kind 
in southeastern Massachusetts. All of the modern 
appliances are to be found here, steam heating, gas 
lighting, etc. In the hall proper, wliich is capable 
of seating one thousand persons, there is a large 
stage with a fine and full set of scenery, sufficient 
for any dramatic play ; this cost over -^1000. The 
clock in the tower was the gift of the Hon. Jose})!) 
P. Johnson, a citizen and resident. The bell was 
the gift of Mr. John F. Nickerson, a former citizen, 
but now residing in Boston. All of the town ofiicials 
have their rooms on the lower floor, and the Ryder 
Street entrance is always open to the public during 
business hours. In the large basement there are 
tables and dishes, with all the rest of the appliances 
for getting up a collation or supper. One interest- 
ing relic of the town is also kept there, the old liand 
fire engine, the first tliat ever came to this place, 
built in 1836, and called the Washing'ton. 



PUBLIC LIBRARY BUILDING. 




Piil)li( Liliraii ami HeadiiiiarlciN J. ('. Krt'Ciiian Pn^t .'),■). G. A. U. Pho- 
to 1)} Wiliiani M. Sinltli. 



110 

This building was erected in 187o b}^ Mr. Nathan 
Freeman, an old and respected citizen of the town, 
and donated to the town to be used as a Public Libra- 
ry Building on the lower floor, the second story for a 
Young Men's Christian Association Room. The 
upper part of the building to be used for photograph 
business, the income to be applied to keeping the 
building and grounds in order. I Inive been allowed 
by the Trustees of the Building to copy from the 
original indenture the following articles wdiich are 
of the most interest in tliat document. 

Article Sixth : The first floor of the building, 
excepting the entrance hall, shall be used and occu- 
pied solely for the pnr[)oses of the Pul)lic Library, 
The second flooj- of the same, except as aforesaid, 
for the sole use of tlie Young ATen's Christian As- 
sociation, and the third story may be occupied and 
rented for photograph rooms or for (jtlier reputable 
purposes. 

Article Eighth : If at any time either the room 
assigned to be used for a Public Library or the room 
assigned to the use of, and occupancy of the Young 
Men's Christian Association, shall fail to be used for 
the several purposes herein named, for three consec- 
utive years, then such rooms shall rebut to my heirs 
at law, but such rooms shall never be used for any 
purpose whatever, that may be objectionable to the 
Board of Trustees, and if at any time, both objects 



Ill 

for which this trust is instituted shall fail, the whole 
property shall revert to my lawful heirs. 

The building was dedicated on Thursday evening, 
December lltli, 1873, the ceremonies taking place 
in the Center M. E. Church, Hon. Nathaniel E. 
Atwood presiding. After making a few remarks 
Mr. Freeman was called upon and in a few well 
chosen remarks, in which he stated his motives for 
erecting the building, he passed the deed of convey- 
ance to the Board of Trustees, wliioh was read by 
his son, Mr. Nathan T. Freeman, after which Mr. 
Andrew T. Williams made the speech of acceptance, 
followed by speeches by Hon. James (Tifford, Dr. 
Henr}' Shortle and others. The Young Men's (Chris- 
tian Association having given up the rooms allotted 
to theui, the Board of Trustees, together with Mr. 
Nathan D. Freeman fitted up the rooms and they are 
now used by the Josiah C. Freeman Post 55^ G. A. 
R., The Women's Relief Corps and other beneficial 
organizations. The present Board of Trustees is A. 
Lewis Putman, Pres. ; John D. Hilliard, Sec. and 
Treasurer; Lj^sander N. Paine, Joshua Cook, Henry 
Shortie, John G. Whitcond), Andrew T. Williams, 
Hon. James Gifford. 

THE LrURAKY. 

The first movement towards a Public Library' was 
in 1863, when the Mayflower Division of the Sons 
of Temperance donated to the town and deposited 



112 

ill the Seamairs Saving Bank, a sum of money 
amounting to nearly three lumdred dollars. This 
to form a nucleus, for the purpose of raising a sum 
of money to establish a Public Library. The first 
movement made by the town was at the annual 
meeting in 1872, when it was voted to appropriate 
the sum of twenty-five dolhirs and the dog tax re- 
funded to the town by the county for the three 
preceding years, amounting to the sum of >'191.45 
for the [jurpose of establishing a Public Library. 
At the annual meeting 1(S73, 858.58, the amount of 
the dog tax for 1872, was added to tlie fund. In 
1874 seven Trustees were chosen and the accumulat- 
ed funds wei'e placed in their hands, the town also 
appropriated -^^2000 for the purchase of books, pro- 
vided that ><1000 shor.ld be raised by subscription. 
Throuofh the efforts of Hon. James (xiftbrd a sufti- 
cient amount was raised, and the Trustees received 
the total amount of ><3,46(3.12. AL*. Augustus Mitchell 
was chosen to make the selection of books, which 
selection was made with great care and met with unan- 
imous approval by all. The Library was open to the 
public June 13th, 1874. In 1889 an aged and res- 
pected citizen of this town, Mr. Benjamin Small, 
donated to tlie Library the munificent sum of -85000 
in stocks and bonds as a perpetual fund, the income 
of which should be applied to purchase books for 
the Library, the principal to remain intact. The 



113 

first librarian was Miss Salome Gifford, followed by 
Mr. William K. Mitchell, who was succeeded by 
Miss Mattie W. Bangs, the present librarian. At 
the opening of the library there were 2202 volumes ; 
on Jan. 1st, 1890 there were 4809, exclusive of 
Public Documents. There are 2433 names on the 
register. The yearly circulation last year was 
9208. There . has recently been placed in the 
Library room a fine picture of Mr. Nathan Freeman, 
who erected the building. 



FIRST NATIONAL BANK PROVINCETOWN, 




First National Bank. Photo by William M. Smith. 



115 

This bank was incorporated first as a State Bank. 
The act of incorporation was passed March 28th, 
1854. The first meeting of the stockliolders was 
held at the Town Honse, May 8th, 1854, Daniel 
Small as Chairman, Elijah Smith as Secretary. The 
act of incorporation was accepted, and a code of 
by-laws adopted. The first Board of Directors chosen 
at that time, were Nathan Freeman, 2d, Daniel Small, 
Isaiah Gifford, Joseph P. Johnson, Henry Cook, 
Enos Nickerson, Samuel Soper, Eben S. Smith, 
Nathaniel Holmes. Samuel Soper having declined 
serving, at a subsequent meeting held May 11th, 
Joshua E. i^owley was chosen in his place. The first 
meeting of the Directors was held at the house of 
Eben S. Smith, and choice was made of Nathan 
Freeman as President, and at the next meeting, June 
14th, 1854, Elijah Smith was chosen Cashier. The 
estate of Joshua Cook was bought and the building 
of which a view is given was erected on the premises. 
The Bank opened successfully and has done a good 
business always, paying good dividends and contin- 
ued to do so during the time it was a State bank, grad- 
ually increasing its capital. In April, 1865, it was 
organized as the First National Bank, with an in- 
creased capital to two hundred thousand dollars 
(•^200,000). Elijah Smith, the first cashier of the 
Bank, continued in that capacity until his death 
which took place January, 1867- Mr. Smith, by his 



116 

kind and genial manners, won many friends and did 
much towards making the Bank popular with the 
community. At his decease, Mr. Moses N. Gifford 
was chosen cashier. Mr. Nathan Freeman, the Pres- 
ident from the organization as a State bank, filled 
that position when it became National, and by his 
keen judgment and conservativeness placed it in a 
sound financial condition and hiade its stock a very 
desirable investment. Mr. Freeman held the i)osi- 
tion until he died, which event took place in InTH. 
His successor, Mr. Stephen Cook, who had been one 
of the Directors for many years, having been elected 
on the Board when it was a State bank, was elected 
to the office, and by his skilful management the 
bank's stock was sold at the highest point it ever 
reached. Mr. Cook died September, \H^S. Mr. 
Moses N. Gifford, the cashier, was chosen to fillthe 
the vacanc}^ ; Mr. Gifford's long and faithfid service 
of twenty-six years as cashier eminently fittijig 
him for that position. Reuben W. Swift, assistant 
cashier, took Mr. Gifford's place as cashier, which 
position he held until his death, which took place 
December, 1889. He entered service at the bank 
in 1867, as clerk, and for his faithful service was 
appointed assistant cashier. Mr. Swift was a man 
that was beloved by the whole community for his 
urbanity, kindness and pleasant ways to those with 
whom he transacted business, and not onlv the 



117 
bank, but the entire comniuiiity, felt liis loss when 
his life's journey ended. Mr. J. Hersey Dyer, who 
for seventeen years had held the position of Secretary 
and Treasurer of the Seaman's Savino- I>aid^. took 
the i)osition at Mr. Swift's death. Isai;ih A. Small 
is the [)resent book-keeper. The Board of Directors 
are, Henry Cook, Joshua Paine, William A. Atkins, 
Joseph P. Johnson, N. P. Holmes, John I). Hilliard, 
(leorge (). Knowles, Joseph A. West Moses N. (rif- 
ford. Since the Bank was made a National liank 
it has paid in dividends •1i«437,0l)0. and has an accum- 
lated sujplus on hand of about 'tTO.'Mio, When the 
bank was first organized there was a In-anch of tlie 
Freeman's bank, of Boston, located in the Old Uidon 
Wharf store ; David Fairbanks had charge of the 
business, the Boston account of the Provincetown 
baidv w as taken to the Freeman's bank and has been 
kept there ever since. 

The history of the baidv would be incom- 
plete without especial mention of Mr. Henry 
(\)ok, who was one of the first Directors 
chosen, and is at present serving, after thirty-five 
consecutive years labor. He is very i)unctual in his 
attendance on the meetings, and no small share of 
the bank's prosperity is due to his counsel and 
advice. 

Note.— The Freeman's bank, at Union Wharf .store, was rohhed hv bur- 
glars Auguit 17th, 1840 ; abf)ut 820.000 were taken. A portion of the 
jnoney was recovered, but not sutHcient evidence could be produced t(t 
convict the culprits. 



SEAMAN'S SAVINGS BANK. 

This institution, one of the most beneficial in the 
place, and one tliat has done a large amount of 
good to the people here, is certainly worthy of 
mention. An act to incorporate the Seaman's Sav- 
ings Bank was granted to David Fairbanks, Joseph 
B. Hersey, Thomas Nickerson, their associates and 
successors; passed the House, April 9th, 1851 ; passed 
Senate, April l*2th, 1851 ; was approved by the Gov- 
ernor, George S. Boutwell, April 14th, 1851. The 
first President was John Adams, who served four 
years, followed by David Fairbanks, who held the 
position eighteen years. At the expiration of that 
time Mr. Lysander N. Paine was chosen, who holds 
the office to-day. The Vice Presidents were Wm. 
Atkins, Atkins Nickerson, and Jolni D. Hilliard, the 
present incumbent. The Secretaries and Treasurers, 
who have held the office to date, and time of service 
are as follows : David Fairbanks, four years, three 
months ; R. E. Nickerson, two years ; Enos Nicker- 
son, nine years ; John Young, Jr., five years, three 
months ; Joseph Hersey Dyer, seventeen years ; 
Lewis Nickerson, recently appointed on account of 



Ill) 

the resignation of Mr. Dyer, he being called to a 
position in the First National Bank here. When 
this bank first commenced Inismess it was carried on 
in the Old Union Wharf store, but shortly after Ex- 
change Building was built for that purpose. This 
bank, like all institutions of the kind, has seasons of 
greater prosperity than otliers, but has always been 
on a sound basis and ably managed, so much so, that 
not a dollar has ever been lost by a depositor, and 
there has been paid out to depositors in interest and 
dividends, since organization, over a half million dol- 
hirs. The capital stock at present is '^322,453 ; num- 
ber of depositors 1593. The bank has recently pur- 
chased the vacant lot of land on Commercial street, 
near the dwelling-house of Capt. Angus McKay, and 
will erect on it a new building for the bank in the 
near future. 



JOSEPH PROSPER JOHNSON, 




JOSEPH P. JOHNSON. 



121 

The subject of this .sketch, wliose likeness we pre- 
sent, is onu v)f tlie most prouiiiient men of the place, 
having identitieil himself with much of the public 
business and ever tried for the advancement and in- 
terest of iiis adapted town. Horn in Essex, Con- 
necticut, July I'Sth, 1813, of English and Scotch 
lineage, his grand-parents having come from Devon- 
sliire and Ayr ; his parents were born in Connecti- 
cut. At ihe age of seventeen he came to this place, 
June 17th, 1827, and apprenticed himself to his 
brother, 'rimothy P. Johnson, until he was twenty- 
one, to learn the sail-making business. After com- 
l)leting his apprenticeship he went into business on 
liis own account, in which he remained till 1850. 
Me then formed a co-partnership business, under the 
tirm name of Hilliard, Johnson & Co., general 
groceries and ship chandlery, on what is now Hil- 
liard's Wharf. This business was carried on for two 
years, when he withdrew from the firm and entered 
into a co-partnership with Reuben F. Cook, and did 
business on Market wharf (now occupied as a lum- 
ber wharf b}^ George Allen) under the name of John- 
son & Cook, vessel outfitters, packers and dealers 
in cod and mackerel, which business was carried on 
successfuU}' for five years. He was connected with 
the Boston Board of Underwriters for twenty years 
and had charge of the interest of that company here 
for fifteen years. In 1850, he was elected a repre- 



122 

tentative to the state Legislature from this District 
and was returned in ' 51 ' 55, ' 56. ' 62, ' 70, ' 71, ' 80. 
Afterwards to the Senate where he served two terms, 
in the years 1882 and '83. He was elected one of 
the Board of Selectmen in 1845, and served five 
years in succession ; then served again for three 
years ; was again elected, but resigned to go to South 
Carolina on a wrecking voyage, having formed a part- 
nership with the late Isaiah Gifford in that business. 
For twenty-eight consecutive years he presided over 
the annual town meetings. When he resigned. 
Resolutions were passed, in a legal town meeting 
assembled, unanimously thanking him for his long 
and faithful service in filling the unsolicited office ; 
which Resolutions wer^ fiamed and presented to 
him and are carefull}- preserved as a momento of the 
esteem in which he is held by his fellow-townsmen. 
When Mr. Johnson came to this place there were 
but three trees in the town, and those were willows, 
which tradition says were propagated from slips 
brought by a whaling captain from Bonaparte'e grave 
at St. Helena. None of these trees are standing to- 
day, but the many willows here are from the slips of 
the original trees. At that time there were no 
wharves, nor bulkheads nor obstructions of any kind, 
along the shore. The vessels that went to the Grand 
Banks, after discharging their fish, would be hauled 
into holes dug on the shore, there to remain until the 



123 

following spring. The sidewalk was not laid, neither 
was there any street. A narrow road, from 
the present Post Office, ran to the westward 
to Cutter's Corner now called Kelley's ; this 
road was soft sand and the vehicles used had 
four to six-inch rims to the wheels to keep them 
from burying in the sand. Mr. Johnson was appoint- 
ed by the Board of Selectmen in 1836 to buy the 
first fire engine that came to this place, and it is 
amusing to hear him tell the astonishment of the 
builders when he ordered the wide wheels. This 
engine is serviceable to-day, and is kept in the Town 
Hall basement. In the year 1845 he took out a li. 
cense as public auctioneer, and has held it every 
year since. He has five children living, two sons 

and three daughters, one of which is the wife of our 
present postmaster, Paron C. Young. He is a mem- 
ber of the following secret beneficial orders : Blue 
Lodge F. and A. Masons, of this place ; Royal Arch 
Chapter, Knight Templars, also of the Boston Lodge 
Royal and Select Masters ; Marine Lodge I. O. O. F., 
and the Boston Lodge of Ancient Odd Fellows. 
Having for some time been retired from active 
business life, he can be seen nearly every day at the 
Post Office relating some anecdote, of which he has 
a large store, to eager listeners, and as it is told in 
his pecular way it never fails to be greeted with ap- 
platise, nor does it tire the patience of his audience. 
And that he may still be spared to us long, is the 
wish of every good citizen. 



JOHN PAINE HAVENDER, 




Tlie old Veteian (ir;m:l Haiikc:-. 



125 

He was 1) irii in Proviiicetowii, October 1st, 1S16. 
where at the early age of nine years lij bei^'an liis 
fisliino; life as cook on board the schooner ()n]\- Son. 
Captain Thomas Hilliard, engaged in the mackerel 
fishery. Tliis was in the year 1825. The next year 
lie went cook to the Grand Banks, which business 
he followed nntil he retired frf»m sea, passing tlirongli 
all the different grades of cook, hand, mate or second 
hand, to captain. He was in the latter position 
tliii'ty years. During his Grand Bank experience he 
made fifty-seven voyages, which is more than has 
been made by any otlier man in the town. The first 
vessel of wliich he took charge wjis the schooner 
Ouselond, from her to the Raritan, these two being 
the only vessels that lie had charge of during his 
tliirty veais as master. During this time he never 
was wrecked nor carried away a [)rincipal spar, never 
liad a man drowned, and always got a full fare of 
fish. When he first began going to the Banks and 
for many years after, it used to be the fashion to fish 
from the rail, the crew fishing half and half, that is, 
one portion fishing, the other dressing the fisli as 
caught, alternately relieving eachother at their labor. 
When master, the fares that he brought in would 
average about six hundred and fifty (juintals, but 
would occasionally make two trips in one season. On 
one voyage in the Raritiin he was absent just seven 
weeks from home, brought in a full fare and received 



126 

as the reward of his labors the snug little sum of 
•'1^2200; this was the best voyage he ever made. He 
lias seen codfish sell for $'2 per quintal and during 
the war of the rebellion and at its close as high as 
•17.25. For the past eighteen years he has remained 
ashore, only going fishing in his little boat off the 
shore here. He had, at one time, a very narrow 
escape from loss of vessel and all hands, which we 
will relate in his own words: ''We were at anchor 
t) the windward of the Main Shoal on the Grand 
lUinks ; there was quite a large fleet there with us. 
A heavy gale came up, but the fleet thought they 
could ride it out and remained at anchor. The gale 
increased, and the shoal water to leeward was break- 
ing mast-head high, a n>ass of white foam. It was 
useless to get underweigh ;in the strength of the gale 
it would be folly and the only hope of safety was in 
the anchors holding on, apparently it was sure des- 
truction to 2:0 adrift. All at once the vessel made a 
heavy plunge into the sea, and I knew by the after 
motion that we were adrift. Rushing on deck, I saw 
that we were driftinor down on to the breakers where 
it was sure destruction, but while there is life there 
is hope, and grabbing an axe I rushed forward and 
cut the cable at the windlass telling the crew to 
hoist the jib, I than went aft and put up the helm ; 
as I done so I saw a tremendous breaker which was 
as high as our mast-head rushing down on us, I 



127 

tliought that our last voyage Was ovei, but just be- 
fore reaching us the jib and helm brought the vessel 
stern to the sea and rising on it we were sent ahead 
at the rate of twenty miles an hour. We hardly 
dared to breathe, such was our speed, and expected 
every second that the schoooner would go end over 
end. It was all done quicker than I can relate it. 
we were over the shoal and in comparatively smooth 
water. The foresail was reefed, the vessel hove too, 
and we rode out the rest of the gale without any 
damage. When the gale moderated we returned to 
tlie fishing grounds, and finished up our trip of fish. 
The rest of the fleet held on and upon our return 
expressed astonishment in seeing us, as every one ex- 
pected that we had gone to the botton, never for one 
moment thinking that a vessel could go over the 
Main Shoal in a gale of wind and through the break- 
ers, and come out of it all right. I hardly think it 
could be done again ; at any rate, I would not like 
to take the chances voluntarily." 



MRS. BETSEY JOHNSON. 




MKS. IJKTSEY JOHNSON. 



129 

Mrs. Betsey Johnson, the snbject of this sketcli, 
was born in Waltham, Mass., January 12, 1800. 
Her parents were Joseph and Abigail Hager, who 
were also born in that town ; her motlier's maiden 
name was Fla^o'. Mrs. Johnson was one of a fam- 
ily of twelve cliildren. When a gro\vn-u[) girl she 
came to Boston and married Timothy P. Johnson, of 
Essex, Conn., who also was one of a large family, 
there beino- fourteen cliildren in the faniiiv. The 
marriage took place October 8, 1824. To this cou- 
ple were born ten children, seven of whom are liv- 
ing to-day. Susan, born August 8, 1825 ; Mary C, 
born January 2, 1829 ; Martha A., born September 
r>, 1830 ; John W., born March 31, 1832 ; Phebe C, 
born November 27, 1834; Bethia G., born December 
5, 1840 ; Joseph S., born October 5., 1847. Martha 
A., married Albert Sweetser and resides in Tarpon, 
Florida. The rest of the children, with the excep- 
tion of Mary C, who married William W. Smith, 
and Bethia, who resides here, are living in Wauseca, 
Minnesota. She came to this place with her husband 
in November, 1825, where he established himself in 
business as a sailmaker. ''Grandma Johnson," as 
she is familiarly called, notwithstanding her advanced 
age, is hearty and healthy and bids fair to see the 
century. Her hearing is good, and she reads with- 
out the use of glasses. She remembers quite dis- 
tinctlv when she first came here. At that time there 



130 

was not a wharf in the place, and only one old, white 
horse and that was owned by the parson. There 
were no roads, and when the first one was laid out 
some of the people were so angry, at what they 
deemed a useless waste of land, that they would not 
walk in it. There weie plenty of wind mills the 
whole length of the town, which were used for 
pumping water into shallow vats for the purpose of 
making salt. In her younger da3-s she learned to 
card, spin and knit, and tells of how she used to go 
to meeting barefoot with slioes and stockings under 
her arm, to be put on when she arrived at the meet- 
ing-house. In those days calico cost eighteen cents 
per yard and a girl with a dress of that goods was 
as proud of it as a y9ung miss to-day would be with 
a seal skin sacque. When a young girl she used to 
help the men in the hay field, and could rake hay 
with the best of them. She had been married ten 
years before she had a stove in the house, and then 
it was one of the old James" patent, costing >s40, 
with copper teakettle and boiler. When her hus- 
band was driven with work she has taken light sails 
to make, for which he used to pay her men's wages, 
one and half cents per yard. With this money she 
would buy what she needed without drawing on his 
purse, and would occasionally go to Boston, taking 
her own money to pay her way. In her 3^ounger 
davs she used to attend the Unitarian church, and 



131 

was brought up in that religion. She does not take 
kindly to corsets and bustles and other new-fangled 
things in the feminine wardrobe of the present day, 
having never worn one of the above-mentioned arti- 
cles. She has recently had her ninetieth birthday, 
which was made a day of celebration by her numer- 
ous relatives and she was made the recipient of 
many presents. Of her descendants now living, 
besides her seven children, she has fourteen grand- 
children and ten great-grandchildren. Endeared to 
those that know her, when the Master calls, she will 
be greatly missed from the place. 

''Her children rise up and call her blessed ! 
Her husband, also, and he praiseth her." 



JOSEPH ELLIS. 




The veteran Fisherinaii, Hunter and Trapper. 



133 

He was born in Harwich, May 15th, 1816 ; came 
to this phice when a mere hid, and has been a citizen 
for over half a centur3\ He married Judith B. Hav- 
ender, a native of this place, and by her has had a 
famil}^ of nine children, — six boys and three girls, 
five of whom are now living, married and have child- 
ren. Mr. Ellis has passed through all of the grades 
of a fislierman's life from boy to captain. He has 
made several voyages in his younger days wlialing, 
and always went boatsteerer or harpooner, his skill 
in striking wliales always securing for him that po- 
sition. The most of his active sea life has been 
spent in the Grand l)ank fishery, having seen thirtv 
consecutive years' service, part of which as master 
of schooner Maiden. During his long sea life he 
was never wrecked nor met with any disaster of 
note, being always considered as one of the luck\ 
ones. VVheii he quit the sea, not wishing to remain 
in idleness, he bought a small boat and turned his at- 
tention to the shore fishing for codfish, and the net- 
ting of mackerel. Tlie likeness shows him engaged 
in mending one of his nets, which he also knits, 
saying ^Hliat it may take longer to knit one by hand 
than by uKichinery, but a hand-knit net is worth two 
of those machine-made things." During the winter 
season lie is by no means idle, for with his gun and 
traps he finds plenty of game to keep him busy. His 
nerves are stead}', eyesight keen and when he draws 



184 

a bead on game of any kind, fox, rabbit or birds, 
they come to a full stop. There are very few gun- 
ners to-day that can shoot with '' Uncle Joe," and 
none that can beat liim at a mark. He has trapped 
and tcjken from the ponds in the rear of the town a 
hundred and twenty muskrats in one winter, and 
occasionally an otter, though the last mentioned 
are not plenty, but when ''Uncle Joe " gets on the 
trail of one, the otter's skin is sure to be '' Uncle 
Joe's " projjcrty and his 23ocket-book is from six to 
ten dollars better off from the sale of the pelt. Hale 
and hearty, Mr. Ellis bids fair to be with us many 
years yet, though men of his type are growing scarce 
and a new generation is springing up to take the 
place of the old-time typical fisherman. 



NICKERSON'S WHALE AND MENHADEN OIL 

WORKS. 




This establishment is situated in the Herring Cove 
near the Race Point Lighthouse. It was bliilt in 
1886, together with a steamer to he used for taking 
whales named the A. B. Nickerson. The total cost 
of steamer, factory buildings and machinery in that 
year was 112,302. In 1887 a bone mill, crusher 
and encjine were added at a cost •ir'1,440. In 1888 
further improvements were made, steam hoister, 



136 

seine boats and seines to be used by the steamer for 
taking menhaden were added at a cost of -3^1,077. 
Ill 18^9 a whnrf was extended from shore four hundred 
feet, to enable vessels to lay and load and the facto- 
r}^ steamer to bring the whales and other fish along- 
side to be handled. A hydraulic press and buildings 
for the purpose of making a fertilizer were put up 
at a cost of •i'2,800. This is one of the most perfect 
plants of that kind on the coast, and during the sea- 
si^n, steamer and factory employ from twenty-five to 
thirty hands, and circulate in the town about >r^lO,000 
yearly. It is well worth a visit by the tourist, and 
the visitor will be courteously received and shown 
the working of the plant. The present manager 
and captain of the steamer is Captain Joshua S. 
Nickerson ; Secretary and Treasurer, John Rosen- 
thal ; Board of Directors, J. F. Snow, B. H. Dyer, 
Luther Nickerson. 



BENNETT'S ICE PLANT, WEBBER'S POND. 




Bennett's Ice House ; Mr. Bennett in the Foreground. 

One of the industries of the place that has grown 
up with the town is the ice business. There are sev- 
eral parties now engaged in the business, but this 
plant is the most extensive. Mr. Bennett began 
business in 1870 by cutting and storing forty 
tons, building himself an ice-house and stable. That 
summer he only disposed of one-half of his stock, 



138 

and it all went to families. The most money he 
took in for one day's ^York, for himself and team, 
was one dollar and forty-two cents. The next year 
there was but a slight increase. On the third year 
a little vessel trade began, and that fall a building 
capable of holding one thousand tons was put up on 
what is called Bennett's Pond. For some years this 
supplied the town, but when weirs began to be put 
down and fresh fishing^ became one of the industries 
of the place, the demand for ice increased. In 1884 
Webber's Pond was bought, and a building capable 

of holding five hundred tons was put up. The busi- 
ness now increased so rapidly that in 1885 the build- 
ing was enlarged to one thousand tons ca[)acity. 
In 1886 an addition holding four hundred tons was 
built. In 1887 a new building capable of holding 
one thousand tons was put up. He has facilities 
now for storing and handling ice, to the amount of 
five thousand tons. Pie employs, when harvesting 
the crop, from one hundred and ten to one hundred 
and twenty men and nine horses. When getting 
in his forty tons he used to be a week, but he now 
puts away five thousand tons in about three days, 
paying for labor about -^1000. His family and hotel 
trade amounts to about nine hundred tons, the bal- 
ance goes to the fish business. Six men are kept 
constantly employed delivering, while he, with his 
fine span of coal-black horses, attends to the family 
and hotel trade. Since he has been in the business, 
there have been three years that not a pound was 
cut, the ponds not freezing sufficiently. 



MATHESON SISTERS. 




Millinery and Fancy Goods. 



140 

This building was erected in 1851, by Joshua E. 
and Gideon Bowly for a generaloutfittin g store for 
vessels ; a wharf was also built in the rear. The Equi- 
table Insurance Office was also in the buildinor for 
some years. At the death of Mr. Joseph E. Bowl}^ 
the senior partner, which took place in 1884, Cap- 
tain William Matheson bought the entire property. 
The store was remodelled and the front part, as 
shown in the engraving, was fitted up for and occu- 
pied by the sisters Mamie S. and Jessie T. Matheson, 
for their business. In the rear part of the store is 
the office of Captain Matheson, who controls and 
manaofes a small fleet of vessels that are engrao-ed in 
the Grand Bank and West India business. The 
wharf that is in the rear of the building, extends 
so far that vessels can come to it at low water. It 
is also the landing place for tlie Boston steamer and 
other excursion boats. 



D. A. MATHESON'S, 




Boots, Shoes and Clotliiiit; Store. 

This building is of historic interest to the town. 
Originally built on Long Point as a school and 
meeting-house in 1846. When the people moved off 
the Point, it was sold to Dr. Jeremiah Stone, and 
floated across the harbor in scows and casks to its 
present site. In October 1871, it was in use as the 
Post Office and during a severe gale an old ship 



142 

came ashore auJ damaged the building badly. It 
was repaired and used for various purposes until the 
present owner leased it. After he had leased it for 
some years, he bought it and made improvements 
upon it in the shape of additions, until but little 
more than the frame of the old building is left. The 
second story has been used for a band room and 
school-room, but now the extensive business done by 
the owner requires the use of the whole building. 
The wharf shown in the engraving to the right is 
the Old Colon V Railroad wharf, built in 1873. 



JOHN ADAMS. 




♦irorery. Meat ami Frovi>ioii Market. 

The first building that oCL-upied the site of the 
present building was eietted by Simeon Giffurd 
and James Chandler. The old schoul-liouse that 
stood at the foot of T(»\vii Hill formed a part of the 
building. Dr. Albion S. Dudley bought the build- 
ino- and carried on denti>trv in nne part, and a peri- 



144 

odical store was kept in the other by John S. Lom- 
bard. Reuben A. Adams, later on, bought the build- 
ing and sold it to ^i. L. Adams in 1863. In 1865 
he took down the old building and put up the pre- 
sent structure, where he was in business for eleven 
years. In 1876 Simeon C. Smith leased the build- 
ing and carried on the grocery and provision busi- 
ness some three years. During the Butler campaign 
of ' 79 it was used as a reading room and Butler 
headquarteis ; from 1^80 to 1883 Warren Fielding 
occupied it as a grocery and provision store. In 
1884 the present occupant, John Adams, took pos- 
session ; the inside of the building has been remodel- 
ed, and the two stores connected, a large refrigera- 
tor, or cooling-room for meats, has been built, and a 
railway to facilitate the handling of the same. 
This is the largest store of the kind in the 
town, and a full assortment of everything that 
pertains to that business can always be found there. 



PILGRIM HOUSE. 




Samuel S. Smith, Proprietor. 

This is the oldest hotel in town, and has been kept 
as one for over three-fourths of a century. The 
date of the building of the original structure is not 
known, but indications are chat it was built in the 
latter part of the last century, or the very first of 
tliis. About 1810 ]\Ir. Benjamin Gifford bought the 
jjlace from tlie builder, Mr. Phineas Nickerson, much 
against the wishes of Mrs. Nickerson, who express- 
ed a wish that an earthquake would destroy it. Sin- 



146 

guliirly enough, one did happen, which shook and 
rattled the dishes and did a slight amount of dam- 
age to the building. In 1847 it fell into the hands 
of his son, the present Hon. James Gifford, who 
made large and extensive alterations and improve- 
ments and continued on the business for some years. 
It has been kept as a hotel by several different par- 
ties, until April, 1878. the present proprietor, Sam- 
uel Sands Smith, (Uncle Sam) leased the bnilding 
from Mr. Isaiah Gifford, a son also of the Benjamin 
Gifford. From time to time alterations and improve- 
ments have been made, until now but very little re- 
mains of the original building, excepting the frame 
work of the part shown in the engraving. The house 
has always born an excellent reputation, and the 
present i)roprietor is known from Maine, his native 
state, to California, as one who caters for the pleas- 
ure and comfort of weary pilgrims who come to him 
for rest. 



ST. PETER'S AID SOCIETY. 




Coat of Anns St. Peter's Aid Society. Photo, William M. Smith. 

This Societ}' is a mutual benetit society connected 
with, but not governed by, the Catholic church. 
Any one can join this Society, after passing the usual 
examinations called for in benefit institutions, the 
only stipulation required being tliat the applicant 
must be a member of that church. The first move- 
ment towards the organization of this Society was 
made in October, 1874 ; names were secured and in 



148 

March, 1875, the society was formed with sixt}- mem- 
bers ; Rev. Father McGiiire, the prime mover in the 
matter and pastor of the church, at tliat time, was 
elected President ; Walter Connor, Vice President ; 
Capt. Joseph Manta, Secretary and Treasurer. 

Wlien it first started, it paid to its memhers five 
dollars a week, for thirteen weeks, wlien sick, and 
twenty-five dollars uj)on the death of a member, 
towards the funeral expenses. Latterly there has 
been a clause added to the by-laws, whereby the 
sum of fifty cents is assesesd from each member, to 
be paid to whomsoever a member shall will it. One 
assessment is alwa}s kept in fund to be i)aid out at 
the death of a member, upmi the payment of which 
another assessment is called. Since this hiw was 
passed there have been only two deaths to date, (Jan. 
1st, 1890.) Since the organization of the Society 
there has been paid out for sick l)enefits and funend 
expenses nearly >'5000, exclusive of the fifty-cent 
assessment. The Society now numbers three hun- 
dred and sixty members, with Capt. Joseph Manta, 
President; Victor J. Leonard, Vice President; Rich- 
ard J. Days, Secretary ; Frank J. Corea, Treasurer. 
The initiation fee is five dollars, with twenty-five 
cents monthly dues ; this is all the expense except 
the fifty -cent assessment, upon the death of a mem- 
ber. The members are mostly Portuguese, and 
every year they hold a regular meeting and turn out 



149 
on a parade. They are a fine body of men, a credit 
to any town, and as their annual parade and muster 
takes place during the winter, when the largest part 
are at home, they always sliow full ranks. Each 
man is dressed in regalia, the American flag fore- 
most in the [)rocession, followed by the Society's 
banner and that by the flag of their native land. In 
the evening of that day an entertainment of some 
kind is usually gotten u[). ending with a ball, in 
which many of their native dances as well as others 
are given The order has leased the old skating 
rink, where regular meetings are held, and made it 
their headquarters under the name of St. Peter's 
Hall. 

Perhnps it will not be amiss in this phice to make 
especial mention of a race tliat forms a large percen- 
tage of the population of this town. They are 
mostly from the Azorean Islands, and the first who 
came here were brought by our whalers that put into 
those Islands to recruit provisions and crew. The 
first one to come to this place who is living at pre- 
sent is Captain Joseph Cross, who was born in Lis- 
bon, Portugal, in 1813, came here in 1826, and fol- 
lowed the sea for a living, passing through all of the 
several positions up to master, in which capacity he 
served many years. He sailed quite a number of 
different vessels, and was counted one of our most 
successful captains. He married his wife, who was 



150 

born here, and alwaj^s made this his home. For the 
past few years he has retired from active service. 
Mr. Frank G. Cook has been liere nearly forty years ; 
he came in a whaler from Pico, one of the Azores, 
where he was born. Mr. (>ook has spent most of 
his life on board of a vessel, sometimes in the whal- 
inoj business, and also made several vovages to the 
Grand Banks. The i)osition he lias held was cook 
and steward, one that he so ably filled that his ser- 
vices were always in demand at a good salary. He 
at present is keeping a grocery and provision store 
on the corner of F'ranklin and Bradford streets. 
These two men are l)ut a sample of the many who 
are now here. Of the fresh fishing fleet of over 
forty sail of vessels, some of which are yachts in 
bnild, nearly all of the captains, and a large majori- 
ty of the crew are of this nationality, and make a 
success of that industry. They follow this branch of 
the fishing business nearly all the year round, and in 
midwinter visit George's Bank. Good citizens, pru- 
dent and saving, their indusry can be no better 
proven than b}^ referring to the large number of cot- 
tages that have been built by them the past few 
years. They and their immediate descendants are 
fully one-half of the population of this place. 
They have brought here with them some of their 
old country customs and also religion. A fine church 
building, with a dwelling-house near by, is their pro- 



151 

perty, and they have a surplus in the church treasury. 
^Though retaining some of their old customs and a 
love for their mother country, still their loyalty and 
fidelity to the country of their adoption is unques- 
tionable, in proof of which can be mentioned those 
that went from here during the rebellion, some of 
whom never returned, but died on the battle field. 



CATHOLIC CHURCH, 




< atliulic riuirrli and Parsonage. IMioto l».v William M. Smith. 

With the i]]tiax of a foreign element the Roman 
Catholic creed came here. For some time they were 
few in numler, and services were held in private 
dwellings. The ti]-st priest to come here and hold 
services was the Rev. Father Phinota, who came 
here in August, 1852, and celebrated the first mass 
in Dennis Cahill's honse on Franklin Street. Mass 
has also been said in the house owned by Thomas 



153 

Welch and in the Pilgrim House. The same year 
(1852) a Sunday School was started at Mr. Cahill's 
with three of his children as members. Mr. Jere- 
miah Qiiinn was the organizer and first teacher. 
This continued until the parish house was fitted, 
when mass and Sunday School were held there. 
The building is now known as Snow's Block, situa- 
ted on Bradford street and used as a tenement house. 
As the society increased, the place became too small 
and the building known as Adams's Hall was leased 
and fitted up for church services. In this building 
services were held until it was burned, which was 
March 4th, 1875. A new and commodious church 
building was at that time in process of construction, 
for the number of members had largely increased by 
the coming in of the Portuguese from the Azores. 
The present church building was completed on 
October 11th of that year. The first service held 
in the Adams' Hall building was on December 24th, 
1871, Rev. Father O'Connor conducting the services, 
who succeded Rev. Father Phinota. This Rev. 
Father Cornelius O'Connor did a great deal of good 
for his flock during his stay, a burial ground was pur- 
chased and laid out and consecrated. The next to 
follow him was Father J. J. McGuire, who inaugurat- 
ed the St. Peter's Aid Society of which mention is 
made in another place. Fathers Tuite and Ward 
succeded him in turn, followed by Rev. Father T. P. 



154 

Elliott, under whose administration the present 
parish house was built near the church. The present 
incumbent is Rev. Father B. F. McCahill, who appar- 
ently has the welfare of his parishioners, both spiritual 
and temporal, at heart. At present there are about 
two thousand five hundred people connected with 
this church. A fine organ, presided over by a Prov- 
incetown lad}', with a choir of excellent singers ren- 
der the celebration of High Mass, according to the 
Catholic ritual, in a very solemn and effective man- 
ner. 



CENTRAL HOUSE. 




James A. Reed Proprietor. 

This l)otel is the only one in the place that is sit- 
uated on the Main street and also the shore beach. 
It was bnilt by Timothy P. Johnson, but nothing 
definite can be found as to the date of building. It 
was first used as a public hall where shows and en- 
tertainments were given. At one time a bowling 
alley and saloon was kept in it, under the manage- 



156 

ment of William Crowell. In 1868 it was purchased 
from the heirs of Timothy P. Johnson by Allen Reed, 
and the whole building underwent an alteration ; 
it was enlarged, a billiard hall attached to it and 
more sleeping rooms added, making it at that time 
the largest hotel in the place. Mr. Reed managed 
the business until his death, which took place in 
1881, when he was succeeded b}- his son, Mr. James 
A. Reed, the present proprietor and manager, who 
also has held the position of Customs Officer and 
conducted the business from a room fitted in the 
building for that purpose. This house has accommo- 
dations for about seventy-five guests, has a fine 
billiard and pool-room attached, ladies' parlor and 
sitting-room, gents' reading and smoking-room, fronts 
the principal street of the town, while from the 
veranda at the rear a fine view of the harbor and 
its shipping can be obtained ; the facilities for bath- 
ing are also good. 



CENTENARY CHURCH. 

The Methodists had so increased up to 1846 that 
it was thought advisable to make two separate 
churches, and place one of them towards the west- 
ern end of the town to accomodate the residents 
there. About that time the Christian LFnion, or as 
they were afterwards called Universalists, built their 
present building and offered the old building for 
sale. Rufus L. Thatcher, Freeman Atkins, and 
Samuel Soper, Methodists, bought the old Christian 
Union Church building in the beginning of the year 
1848. The price paid was 11,400. The building 
was throughly overhauled and remodelled, the cupo- 
la taken off and a steeple put on instead, a new front 
was made to the building, and a bell placed in the 
belfry. A church was then formed by the Metho- 
dist residents at the western end of the town, num- 
bering about one hundred communicants; Rev. Sam- 
uel Fox was appointed by conference to the pasto- 
rate, and the Church was dedicated in that year un- 
der the name of the Wesley Chapel. The church 
membership increased, and it was thought advisable 
to build the present structure, which was begun in 



158 

1865. The bell was removed from the old chapel 
and placed in the present church tower. The church 
was dedicated in June, 1866. Rev. G. W. Bridge 
was the first pastor, followed by G. M. Hamlin in 
1868. The church has been very prosperous, and 
at present writing has a membership of one hundred 
and seventy-seven, with parishoners that attend and 
help support the gospel enough to make up the total 
amount of two liundred and fifty. There are 
twenty-seven olficers and teachers connected with 
the churcli and Siinda\' School. The number of 
Sunday Scljool children two hundred and twenty- 
five ; Andrew T. Williams is the Superintendent. 
Tlie Sunday Scliool library contains five hundred 
volumes. Tlie present pastor. Rev. Samuel McBur- 
ney, is in his second year of pastorate. 



JOHN L. RICH'S 




Eniporiuiii, C'lotliiii^. Boots and Shoes, Etc. 



160 

This building was built in 1845 and '46 by James 
Chandler, Lemuel Cook, and Joshua Bowly ; tlie 
wharf attached was called Market Wharf; the busi- 
ness done was general fitters of vessels and buyers 
of cod and mackerel. A sail-loft was also connect- 
ed at one time in the building, the work carried on 
under the management of Benjamin Allstrum. The 
general fishing business was carried on by different 
parties, the last being Joseph P. Johnson and Reu- 
ben F. Cook, who conducted it for five years. In 
1857 the entire place was bought by Captain Ben- 
jamin Rider and was made a lumber wharf and the 
upper part of the building fitted up for a dwelling. 
It remained in his possession until his death, when it 
reverted to his heirs, who are the present owners. 
The lower floor has been used for various kinds of 
business, — grocery, fancy articles, etc. In 1873 the 
present occupant leased the left side portion of the 
lower floor and fitted it for boot and shoe business ; 
as business increased the rest of the building was 
leased and fitted up for the clothing and gents' fur- 
nishing goods, — this was done in 1887. Mr. Rich 
has now been carrying on a successful business here 
for seventeen years and keeps one of the largest 
stocks in his line in the town. 



UNIVERSALIST CHURCH. 
A church was built in 1829 on the plot of ground 
now the site of the house occupied by Captain Ab- 
ner B. Rich on Commercial street, at the head of 
Central wharf. This church was called the Chris- 
tian Union Church and cost when completed -^3,105. 
One Jonathan Farr preached the first sermon, April 
19th, 1829, and also on the following Sabbath, the 
26th. He was succeded by a Mr. Wiswell, and a 
Mr. Thomas Snow, who were candidates. The pul- 
pit was occupied by candidates during the remaining 
part of 1829 and until July, 1830. During the pe- 
riod of candidates one, Stephen Bailey, was called, 
who preached one Sabbath, but refused to be located 
unless the name was changed to something designat- 
ing a Trinitarian society. This the society refused 
to do, and other candidates preached until Mr. A. 
Davis was located in July, 1830. The dedication of 
the church took place November 3d, 1830, Rev. H. 
Hersey, of Barnstable, preaching the dedication ser- 
mon, after which the church was organized and the 
following officers were elected. Clerk, David Fair- 
banks ; collector, Samuel Parker ; treasurer, Jona- 



162 

than Nickersou ; assessors of taxes, Charles O. 
Brown, Thomas Lothrop, Henry Williard; wardens, 
Elisha Nickerson, Samuel Parker; sexton, Elisha 
Nickerson. Rev. Mr. Davis preached nntil 1838. 
when Rev. John liouvee Dodds was called to take 
charge of the church, where he remained six consec- 
utive years. From 18-1-1 until the present church 
was built there were several candidate preachers, but 
their names were not recorded. The present struc- 
ture was built in 1847, ai^d the clock now in the 
church was preseuted at that time by Mr. Josepli 
Atkins, a man whose name is often mentioned in 
the church records. He took a great interest in the 
welfare of the church, and had reached the advanced 
age of eighty-seven years. The name of the society 
was then changed to the Universalist society and 
Rev. Emmons Patridge was the first to preach in the 
new church. This church has sent out since its or- 
ganization more preachers of the gospel than all the 
other churches in the place combined. Some of 
them have become men of note, and have acquired a 
worthy notoriety in other places. Rev. William 
Henry Ryder, who recently died in Chicago, a man 
that was well known in this and other countries, was 
from this church. William Stull, Joseph Hatton 
Weeks, William Arnold, Charles Galacar, Gamaliel 
Collins, who during the war of the rebellion was 
chaplain in the service ; William Henry Ryder and 



163 

Charles W. Ryder, sons of Godfrey and Phebe 
Ryder, and nephews of Rev. William Henry Ryder ; 
R. Perry Bush, and Caleb Fisher, who though 
at present has not tinished his studies, shows 
talent in his sermons and bids fair to become a use- 
ful and noted member of che ministry. 



KING HIRAM LODGE FREE AND ACCEPTED 

MASONS. 

This organization is one of the oldest in the place. 
Its charter was sisfned bv Paul Revere. The first 
record we find is dated December 12th. 1795, John 
Young. W. M. A code of by-laws was drawn np 
and adopted March 21st. 1796, and the following 
officers chosen : Jonathan Cook. S. W. ; Benjamin 
Wilcox. J. W. : Samuel Cook, Secretary: Jonathan 
Nickerson. Gen. Steward ; Thomas Smalley, Jr. 
Steward; George Nickerson. Gen. Deacon : Abner 
Dunham. Jr. Deacon : Solomon Cook, Treasurer : 
Stephen Atkins. Tyler. Work was begun with 
twenty-six members, at the house of Solomon Cook, 
which stood near the site of the First National Bank. 
December 20th. 1796. On the records I find that 
it was '• Voted to bild a lodge house March 23d. 
1797.** '• Brother Allen Hinckley should bild the 
lodge house for the same sum of money as the Well- 
fleet lodge house was built, ten feet bigger, and that 
in proportion.*" All the members which is twenty- 
six are to build a lodge house. '• Voted that Bros. 
Thomas Smallev. Allen Hincklev. Jonathan Nicker- 



16o 

son. should buy the stuff to bild the lodge house. 
It was also voted to bild the buildiug not only for 
a lodge house, but also for a school-house.'' This 
building was put up by the brothers at the foot of 
High Pole Hill, and is now owned bv the heirs of 
Thomas G. Atkins : a considerable lot of the orion- 
nal frame work and boards are in the present build- 
ing. The. brothers, in a body, carried all of the tim- 
ber, planks and boards from the shore to the site, 
on their backs. The buildinor was finished as asfr^ed 
upon, and a school kept in the lower story. Here 
the brotherhood did their work until the persecution. 
known as the Morgan time, drove them out. A few 
of the band would then meet occasionally, where- 
ever a place could be found, and by this means tliey 
held their charter and are now working under their 
old original document. When the persecution 
ceased, the building getting old and dilapidated, it 
was sold and the brothers met for business in what 
is now called Odd Fellows' Hall, where they remain- 
ed until their present building was finished March, 
1870. The present board of officers (January 1st. 
1890) is as follows: 

Jerome Smith, W. M. 
Simeon C. Smith. S. W. 
William Curran. J. W. 
A. Louis Putnam, Treasurer. 
J. Hersey Dyer. Secretary. 



166 
Joseph P. Johnson, Chaphiin. 
Joseph Whiiconib, ^Marshall. 
George VV. Holbrook, S. D. 
Dr. VV. S. Bilge, J. D. 
Francis P. Cook, S. Steward. 
J. H. Livermore, Jr. Steward 
John W. Reatty, Tyler. 

Tlie Jo.^c[)h Warren K(\val Arch Chapter was in- 
stitnted June 8tli, 1869, with the following compan- 
ions as the charter members. Jeremiah Stone, 
J(»^L'l)h P. Jolnisoii, Lanren Young, (^iiarles Young, 
Ji)shua E. Howly, George T. VVyer, Eben T. At- 
wood, Warien Newcond), Josliua F. Tobey, James 
E. Kiel), Joseph S. Atwood, Joseph B. Baxter, 
William H. H. Weston, Joseph H. Bird, John W. 
Atwood, Sylvester D. Rich, Albert Sweetser, John 
\1. Freeman, Darius A. Newcomb, Frederick W. 
Harding. 

The Past High Priests of this chapter, with the 
hites of service, are as follows. 

Jeremiah Stcme, M. D., from 1869 — 1870 
Joseph P. Johnson, - 1870 — 1873 

Lauren Young, ^' 1873 — 1874 

John W. Atwood, - 1874—1876 

John M. Crocker, '^ 1876 — 1877 

Lanren Young, '' 1877 — 1878 

Horace A. Freeman, " 1878 — 1879 
Harvey O. Sparrow, '' 1879 — 1880 



167 

Artemus P. Haiinum, '^ 1880 — 1881 
Frederick A. H. Gifford, " 1881 — 1882 
Joseph H. Dyer, '' 1882—1883 

^ Frederick A. H. Gifford, - 1883 — 1884 

* Harvey O. Sparrow, - 1884—1887 

James'^E. Rich, '' 1887 — 1888 

Frederick A. H. Giffoi'd, November, 1888: 
now in office, January 1st, 1890. 

The foUowinor list of officers was elected Novem- 
ber, 1889, for the ensuing year. 

Frederick A. H. Gifford, M. E. H. P. 
Artemus P. Hannum, E. K. 
Angus McKay, E. S. 
Joseph Prosper Johnson, Treasurer. 
James A. Small, Secretary. 
I John G. Whitcomb, Chaplain. 

Harvey O. Sparrow, C. of H. 
Joseph H. Dyer, P. S. 
Jonathan H. Little, R. A. C. 
Moses N. Gifford, M. 3d Veil. 
John Ro-Benthal, M. 2d Veil. 
Eli McKay, M. 1st Veil. 
Francis P. Cook, S. Steward, 
Hezekiah P. Hughes, J. Steward. 
Sentinel, John W. Beatty. 
This chapter holds its regular convocations on 
the first Friday of each month, and the annual con- 
vocation first Friday in November. 



INDEPENDENT ORDER OF ODD FELLOWS. 

Oil October 29tli, 1845, eleven members of this 
Order met in the store loft of one Leander Crosb}^ for 
the purpose of establishing a lodge in this place. 
The store stood on tlie vacant lot between what is 
now Macoors cooper shop and Bangs's lin-ware and 
stove shop ; the lower part of the building was used 
by Mr. Crosby for carrying on the tin-ware business. 
The names of these persons were Leander Crosby, 
owner of the store. Rev. Emmons Patridge, pastor 
of the Universalist Church, Joseph P. Johnson, one 
of tlie l^oard of Selectmen at that time, Josiah 
Sturgis, Kilborn W. Freeman, Warren Smith, Josiah 
S. Fuller, David Crowell, John L. Lothrop, Joshua 
Small, Jr., Jonatlian Crosby. A charter was applied 
for and granted, and on the 21st of November foL 
lo\ving, the lodge was instituted and called the 
Marine Lodge, No. 96. The officers from the Grand 
Lodge that instituted this lodge were Merrill A. 
Thompson, Grand Master, assisted by George Alex. 
Smith, L^ist. Dept. Grand ^Lister, and the following 
members of the order were admitted: Eben S. 
Smith, William A. Atkins, William Smith, Thomas 



169 

Lothrop, Jonathan Nickerson, Jr., John Smith, 
Warren Newcomb. Thus the lodge at its organiz- 
ation comprised only eighteen members. The fol- 
lowing are the first officers of the Lodge : 
Leander Crosby, N. G. 
Josiah Sturgis, V. G. 
Emmons Patridge, Secretary. 
Jonathan Crosby, Treasurer. 
Josiah S. Fuller, Warden. 
Eben S. Smith, Conductor. 
I Kilborn W. Freeman, O. G. 

I Joseph P. Johnson, I. G. 

I William A. Atkins, R. S. N. G. 

I Warren Smith, L. S. N. G. 

I Jonathan Nickerson, R. S. V. G. 

I William Smith, L. S. V. G. 

r Thomas Lothrop, R. S. S. 

John L. Lothrop, L. S. S. 
Their present building was bought in 1846 and 
the upper part fitted up for a lodge room. The 
building was buirlt in 1832 by a share company and 
called the ''Village Hall," and was used for public 
meetings, dances and social gatherings. This order 
has rapidly increased and now numbers about two 
hundred and twenty members, being the largest or- 
ganization outside of the churches in this place. 
Besides caring for a sick brother, there is an insur- 
ance among the brotherhood connected with the 



1 iV 



order. The meetings are held weekly on Wednesday 
evenings. The present officers of the Order are : 

Otis M. Knowles, N. G. 
Franklin E. Hill, V. G. 
Francis S. Miller, Secretary. 
Heman S. Cook, Treasurer. 
Williard T. Biirkett, Warden. 
Thomas W. Sparks, Conductor. 
George W. Tuttle, O. G. 
Nathaniel H. Small, I. G. 
David B. Rich, R. S. N. G. 
John Rosenthal, L. S. N. G. 
Jesse Nickerson, R. S. V. G. 
Silas C. Mott, L. S. V. G. 
Lewis B. Pinckney, R. S. S. 
William C. Sparrow, L. S. S. 
James A. Small, Chaplain. 
Fred. E. Williams, P. G. 



PROF. GEORGE WASHINGTON READY SEE- 
ING THE SERPENT. 




172 

111 1886, Professor Ready alleges tliat he saw this 
monster and furnished a reporter with the facts, 
whicli were written out and published in the Cape 
Cod Iteni^ at Yarnnjuthport, from wliich paper it was 
largely copied into otlier papers throtighout the 
country. I believe that there has been no reHahle 
account of the apj)earance of the serpent since. At 
considerable expense, I have been able to secure the 
original document, together with the professor's 
likeness and affidavit. 

SEA SERPENT IN PliOVlNCETOWN. 

The recent earthquakes have so disturbed the 
bottom of the ocean, that many of the huge creat- 
ures which it is believed exist there have come to 
surface. Sea serpents and other nondescript mon- 
sters, it is alleged, have been seen in various places 
besides Marblehead, the sea serpent's home. The 
latest and most colossal in dimensions has visited 
Provincetown. Mr. George W. Ready, a well-known 
citizen here, was going from the town to the back- 
side of the Cape, and in crossing one of the sand- 
dunes, or hills, saw a commotion in the water, about 
a half a mile from the shore in the Herring Cove. It 
looked like a whirlpool and from his standpoint ap- 
peared to be about twenty feet in diameter, from the 
center of which jets of spray, looking like steam, 
were ejected to the height of fifty feet. Intently 
watching this strange phenomenon, he presently saw 



173 

a huge head appear above the surface, and point for 
the shore. The head was as hirge as a two hundred 
gallon cask, concave on the under side and convex 
on the upper. Mr. Ready saw the creature coming 
towards the shore and secreted himself in a clump of 
beach plum bushes, where he got a good view of the 
monster. The creature swam to the ,shore with a 
slow and undulating motion and passed within about 
thirt}^ feet of where Mr. Ready was secreted. It 
was about three hundred feet long, and in the thick- 
est part, which was about the middle, he judged as 
it passed him to be about twelve feet in diameter. 
The body was covered with scales as large as the 
head of a fisli barrel, and were colored alternately 
green, red and blue. They did not overlap each 
other, but seemed as if they were joined together by 
a ligature some four inches broad. 'The most curi- 
ous feature was the head. The open mouth disclosed 
four rows of teeth, which glistened like polislied 
ivory, and were at least two feet long, while on the 
extreme end of the head or nose, extended a tusk 
or horn at least eight feet in length. The creature 
had six eyes as large as good-sized dinner plates, and 
they were placed at the end of moveable projections, 
so they were, at least, three" feet from the head. In 
the creatures moving along these projections were con- 
tinually on the move so that the reptile could see be- 
fore, behind, and sideways, at the same time. Three 



174 

of the eyes were of a fiery red hue, while the others 
were of a pale green. A strong sulphurous odor 
accompanied him, and intense heat was emitted, so 
much, that the bushes and grass over which he moved 
have the appearance of being scorched with fire. 
When the tail came out of the water it was seen to 
be of a V shape, the broadest part towards the body, 
to which it was joined by a small bony cartilage 
about twenty feet long, and only ten inches in diam- 
eter. This tail on the broad part was studded with 
very hard, bony scales, shaped like the teeth of a 
mowing machine, or reaper, about one foot long, and 
eight inches at the base, and cut everything smooth 
to the ground as it was dragged over the surface ; 
pine and oak trees, nearly one foot in diameter, were 
cut off as smoothly as if done by a saw, and have 
the appearance of being seared over with a hot 
iron. The creature made for one of the large fresh 
water ponds called Pasture Pond. When in the 
center the head, which had all the time been raised 
some thirty feet in the air, began slowly to descend 
and was soon under water, the body slowly follow- 
ing it. As the tail disappeared, the water commenced 
to recede from the shore till the pond was left com- 
pletely dry with a large hole in the center some 
twenty feet in diameter, perfectly circular, down 
which sounding leads have been lowered two hun- 
dred and fifty fathoms and no bottom found. By 



175 

standing on the brink of the hole, what appears to 
be water, can be seen at a long distance down. Prep- 
arations are being made to investigate the matter, 
and thousands are going to see and examine the 
track of the huge sea monster. For fear that this 
statement should be doubted, and any one try to 
contradict it, I here append a copy of Mr. Ready's 
affidavit and signature : 

" I, George Washington Ready, do testify that the 
foregoing statement is correct. It is a true descrip- 
tion of the serpent as he appeared to me on that 
morning, and I was not unduly excited by liquor or 
otherwise." George W. Ready. 

NOTE. Mr. Ready resides at the head of Pearl Street in this place, 
and can he interviewed on the suhject at any time. 



INTERESTING ANECDOTES. 



REMARKABLE CIRCUMSTANCE. 

The schooner Bion, Capt. Isaac Mayo, was in Bos- 
ton fitting for a voyage to the Grand Banks. After 
having obtained her fittings, started to come to Prov- 
incetown. The wind was to the north-east with a 
drizzling rain. After passing Boston Light the course 
was laid for Wood End. Xiglit was coming on and 
a strong flood tide setting up the bay. After sailing 
about the time required to make the Light on Long 
Point a light was seen off the port bow, which was 
taken for it. After passing it, the vessel was hauled 
on the wind and stood over to what was supposed to 
be the Truro shore. Judging that they were near 
enough the vessel was tacked and headed up, as they 
thought, for anchorage off the wharves. After sailing 
what was thought to be the right distance to the 
anchorage, the anchor was let go and sails furled. It 
being late at night and storming, the crew concluded 
that they would not go ashore until morning. When 
morning came, upon coming on -deck a strange sight 
met their eyes : the vessel was aground, and a num- 



177 

ber of large rocks were out of the water just ahead 
of the vessel. A low, sandy beach could be seen 
through the mist, but it was all a strange place to 
captain and crew. A boat was lowered, the shore 
reached and examined, but still no one could tell 
where they were. Returning on board they waited 
until the vessel floated with the flood tide, when the 
wind hauled to the north and the weather cleared 
off. Far away to tlie north could be seen the outlines 
of the land at Provincetown harbor. Sail was made 
and home finallv reached. The strongr flood tide had 
set the vessel up the bay and Billingsgate Light was 
the light taken for Long Point. Standing over 
towards the Eastham shore they tacked, and coming 
through the narrow channel uf James's Harbor had 
anchored on the outside, near the rocks on the south- 
ern part of Great Island. The channel through 
which they came is very narrow, not more than two 
vessels' length in width and a large rock in the mid- 
dle. This channel is only available on extreme high 
water, and then only used by very skilful pilots in 
the day-time. There are parties residing here to-day 
that were on board the vessel, and made the passage 
with Capt. Mayo. 

QUICK VOYAGE. 

Schooner Estelle, Capt. James E. Rich, made the 
voyage from Boston to Bermuda, discharged and load- 
ed a full cargo and returned to Boston, making the 



178 
round voyage in thirteen cla^s. The quickest time 
between the two ports on record. 

TOUGH STEAK. 

Old John S. was a noted character, and some of his 
yarns, that he was wont to spin, were noted for tlieir 
being too strong to be true. Around the stove in 
some of the stores durins^ the Ions: winter evenins^s, 
he would tell them for hours on a stretch, when he 
could find listeners. One that he often told was 
this : A butcher had sold the old man some meat, 
and he was tellino^ the crowd how touoh it was. 
He said, '^ I carried it home and fried it, but could 
not do anything with it. The next day I biled it all 
day long, and at night it was tougher tlian the day 
before. I then threw it out of doors and a dog com- 
ing along tackled it. Tlie dog took one end of the 
meat in his mouth, and placing his paw on the meat 
tried to tear off a piece. The meat stretched like a 
peice of Injy rubber, the more the dog pulled the 
more the meat stretched ; soon his paw slipped and 
the meat flying back, knocked the dog over stiff! '' 
Here the narrator stopped. " Did it kill him ? " was 
asked. The reply was, " No, but the dog has not 
seen a well day since, besides being a cripple for life !'* 

HE VOTED HIS SENTIMENTS. 

Dennis S. was well known for his Irish wit and 



179 

ready repartee. The person who altempted to ridi- 
cule him in an argument was sure to come off sec- 
ond best. At a town meeting, when a vote was ta- 
ken on the license question, Den marched boldly 
up to the ballot box holding his vote so that every 
one could see the big '' Yes" that was printed on it, 
he being strongly in favor of license. When the 
votes were counted liis was the onl}' yes vote cast. 
Considerable chaffing and laughter was indulged in 
by the crowd, but Den took it all in good part, re- 
plying, '' Be gorra byes, I voted my sintimints ona- 
how." When it came to voting on appropriations, 
•i^SOO was called for to be used for temperance pur- 
poses. Dennis had been quietly waiting his chance 
to get even, and before the vote was taken rose to 
his feet and said : " Musther Moderator, if it is 
in order, I would like to make an amindmint to that 
motion. I move you, sir, that it be fufty dollars 
instead of three hundred; according to the vote on 
license, I am the only man in town that drinks whis- 
key, I'll guarantee that I can be kept straight for fifty 
dollars, making a clane saving to the town of -$250." 
This brought down the house. When quiet was re- 
stored, the vote was taken and the article carried 
without the '' amindment." Den then rose and said, 
" I now know, domed well, some of yees voted 
against yer principles." 



180 

THE PEAR TREE. — WHEN YOU :MAKE A DOXATIOX 
BE CAREFUL HOW YOU ^VORD IT. 

The followingr story comes from Truro. A father 
had two sons, whose names were Ephraim and Mnl- 
ford. Ephraim was noted for beiog quite a rogue, 
though not a bad boy by any means. Mulford was 
more sedate, and rather a favorite with his father, 
^ho would make him presents at times and not give 
any to Ephraim. thinking to punish him in this way 
for his roguish tricks. A hue pear tree was standing 
in the garden that bore an abundance of nice fruit. 
One day, for some trifling misdemeanor of Ephraim, 
the father to punish him, took the two boys into the 
crarden and reading^ them a lecture, said, '' I am ^o- 
ing to make you. Mulford, a present of that tree, 
and as for you, Ephraim. you might have had it, if 
you had only behaved yourself, but I give the tree 
to Mulford to punish you." When fall came the 
tree was loaded down with nice fruit. One evening 
when sitting around the fireside, Mulford and his 
father were estimating how many pears there were 
on the tree, and how much money they would bring 
in Wellfleet. Plans were laid to pick the fruit the 
next day. In the morning Mulford went to pick 
the pears, and not a pear was to be found on the 
tree. Sorrowincr over his loss, he went and told his 
father, who went in search of Ephraim. mistrusting 
full well that he was the culprit. When found and 



181 

asked if be had taken the pears, he freely answered 
'* Yes.'" The father said. '• Don't you know I gave 
that tree to Mulford?" With feigned innocence 
he answered. '' Yes. father, I know you gave the tree 
to Mulford. but yer didn't say pears n'all." 

BIG DiscorxT. 

One of the noted men of this place is the " Dea- 
l con. who is well versed in equine matters and a not- 

: ed horse-trader. DriWng an old horse along the 

street, one day. he fell in with a noted jockey, who 
in a baiiterincr manrier asked the Deacon what he 
f wcuild take for the horse. '* One hundred and fiftv 

* dollars," was the replv. •' Will ^ive vou twentv-five." 

isaid the jockey. *' Take him." replied the •• Deacon." 
but I must say it is oneh — 1 of a discount for that 
I animal. " 

I SHE LOST HEE TOWELS. 

4 

] The English steamship Caledonia came ashore 

: near Race Point. January 1st. 1863. The vessel had 

' on board a verv valuable carcro, amoncr which were 

•' cases of broadcloth, woollen groods. linen in bolts, 

I cotton cloth, and thread. As all of the cargo was 

I discharged there was a great quantity and it could 

not be expected that all of it would be returned to 
the underwrit-ers' agent, more or less being taken by 
the workmen and people on the beach. A story is 
told how one of the workmen brous^ht home one 



182 

night a bolt of Irish linen toweling. It being some- 

what .stained by being wet in salt water, the wife of 

the man that bronght it in, washed it and knowing 

if hnngont to dry, passers by would notice it, and 

know where it came from, thonght it a good idea to 

!iang it on a neighbor's clothes line, as the two clothes 

vards adjoined. When tlie linen was dry, the owner 

*f the clothes line went and took it in, reasoning to 

iiorself that if she was o-oino- to have the name of 

1 ivijig some of the Caledonia's stnff, she might as 

veil have the article. It is needless to say tliat the 

:i'st])arty never called for their toweling, and there 

/as a coldness between the families ever after, and 

ihey were not on speaking terms, 

C )0D FISHING. — THREE FISH CAUGHT ON ONE 
HOOK AT THE SAME TIME. 

A trawler had set his trawl off the Trnro shore 
: 'r cod-fish. A small tish, in taking one of the baits, 
':ad swallowed the hook ; a dogfish happened along 
;nd becjan to eat the small cod-fish and was cancrht 
:i the mouth by the hook. A large goose-fish swal- 
' wed both, and the trawler had, to his surprise 
v. hen he hauled in his trawl, three fish on one hook. 

A GOOD day's work. . 

The schooner Richard, of Truro, Captain Richard 
' ich, in the year 1848, when fishing for mackerel on 
^ hat is known as the '' Middle Bank," between Cape 
^ "od and Cape Ann, with a crew of twelve men and 



183 

two boys, caught in one day, on hook and line, one 
hundred and seventy-five barrels of extra good mack- 
erel. This, we think, is the largest catch ever made 
in one day with hook and line by any Cape Cod 
vessel. 

A GOOD SWALLOW. 

The before-mentioned '' Deacon," in the summer is 
often employed to take parties around the town and 
on excursions to the Race or Highland Light Houses. 
Now the '' Deacon" believes in the words of St. Paul, 
'' That a little wine is good for the stomach's sake," 
and indulges moderately when he wants it. It hap- 
pened one day that he was called to take a party of 
young city bloods on an excursion to Kace Point 
Light. They were amply provided with the usual 
remedies against snake bites and other accidents. 
After getting out of town and into the woods, one 
of the party pulled out a flask, and taking a drink, 
it was passed from one to another. Not knowing the 
" Deacon" and hearing him addressed by that title, 
thought that he was a deacon of some church and 
did not offer him any. The " Deacon" drove along, 
inwardly regretting that such a name should deprive 
him of taking something, as he mistrusted what was 
the truth. After a while cigars were produced, and 
thinking there could be no liarm in offering him one, 
he was asked to take one. This was his chance and 
his reply came quickly. " No, gentleman, I never 



184 

use tobacco in any form, uor never did, I am getting 
too old to learn, but I can swallow just as well as if 
I was vounofer."' Roars of laughter greeted this re- 
mark, and it is needless to say the bottle was pro- 
duced and the " Deacon'' took the first pull. After- 
wards, whenever the tlask was produced, it would 
be tendered to him first, with the remark, *' Deacon 
tr}^ your swallow."" 

WRECK OF THE (ilOVANNIA 

On March the 4th, 1875, the Italian bark Giovan- 
nia, from Palermo, Sicily, came ashore about two 
and one-half miles to the eastward of the Peaked 
Hill Life Saving Station. It was blowing fresh at 
the time from the north-east, with thick and heavy 
snow squalls. The bark grounded on the bars, it be- 
ing low water at that time. As soon <is the vessel 
was seen from the station preparations were made to 
rescue the crew. The mortar, shot lines and hawsers 
were taken out, and the station men started for the 
wreck. It was heavy and toilsome work dragging 
the cart along the shore, as there was a heavy ice 
wall along the beach at high water mark. The 
wreck was not reached initil after five o'clock, taking 
over three hours to make the distance The crew 
from the Highland Station were at the scene of the 
wreck, but without any of their apparatus. A con- 
sultation was held by the two captains, Atkins and 
Worthen, and it was thought best to go to the lat- 



185 

ter's station at Highland and get the life car. Leav- 
ing one of the men at the wreck, the rest of the sta- 
tion men went after the car. During their absence 
tlie steward and boatswain of the bark put a plank 
overboard and tried to reauh the shore. The plank 
was turned over and over, but the men clung to it 
with desperation until they reached the breakers on 
the beach, when the boatswain lost his hold and was 
drowned. A young man of this place named Ber- 
nard Jacint, tying a line around his body, while the 
other end was held by some of the people on the 
beach, rushed into the surf and grasping the steward, 
both were hauled safely back ashore out of the un- 
dertow. It was a daring deed of young Jacint and 
he should have been rewarded, but a casual mention 
in the local paper was all the notice ever taken. The 
station men hauling the life car through banks of 
snow three and four feet deep assisted by some of 
the people from Pond Village, arrived at the wreck 
at eleven o'clock that night. It was then so dark 
that the vessel could not be seen. A fire was kept 
burning on the beach, and the station men went to 
their station for something to eat, leaving a watch 
on the beach, knowing that it would be impossible 
to do anything until daylight. As soon as daylight 
dawned the vessel was seen in the same position she 
was in at dark, apparently uninjured. The mortar 
was loaded and a shot, with line attached, fired, but 



186 

it fell over sixty feet short. Another and another 
were fired, each one falling short of the mark; at 
last the ammunition giving out, the station men and 
spectators that had gathered on the beach were talk- 
ing of coming in to town for a boat. During the 
time of firing the shots, only one man was to be seen 
on the wreck standing in the port main channels. 
When the firing ceased, the crew, who had been un- 
der the topgallant forecastle, came out one by one ; 
going up the fore rigging, they went out on the fore 
yard arm and dropping overboard, endeavored to 
reach the shore by swimming. Not a soul reached 
the beach alive. Some would stay up for some time, 
but would be seen to throw up their hands and go 
down, never more to rise. One man, supposed after- 
ward to be the captain, kept on top of the waves 
for nearly three-quarters of an hour, but such was 
the strength of the current and undertow along the 
shore, that when he sank he was no nearer the shore 
than when he went overboard. His body was pick- 
ed up about one mile westward of the station, and 
when found was clad only in his underclothing. The 
rescued steward was able to identify him as the cap- 
tain. It was a heart-rending sight to witness the 
death of these men without the power to save. 
Shortly after the crew went overboard, the vessel 
began to break up and in less then an hour there 
was nothing visible of the wreck, but a portion of 



187 
the bow. The shore for miles along the beach was 
strewn with the cargo and the debris of the wreck. 
The steward, who was a native Palmerese, was 
named Salvadore Chappira ; he was kindly cared for 
by the station men, and upon his arrival in town, he 
being a Catholic, was taken in charge by the priest 
here and forwarded to New York, and thence home. 
Thirteen lives were lost in this wreck, and no such 
large loss of life has happened since, the gun and ap- 
paratus now used being more efficent. The vessel 
was also poorly built, and bilged on the bar, which 
was the reason she never came in any nearer to 
the shore. Had she come up on the beach there is 
no doubt but every man would have been saved. 

CHASED BY A BARREL. 

Before the Life Saving Stations at the backside 
shore were built, it was a common thing during a 
heavy breeze for parties to go out on the beach 
seeking for anything that the gale might drive on 
shore. Old John P. was one that often frequented 
the beach on these occasions. One night there was 
a heavy north-west wind blowing, the sand on the 
beach was frozen hard, the night was quite dark, but 
starlight. Old John started for the backside in hopes 
to pick up something whereby he could make a dollar. 
Arriving at the beach he walked back and forth 
until nearly midnight, but met with no luck. At 
last, being tired with his tramp and not meeting 



188 

with any success, he turned liis steps towards the 
town for home. As he got into the hollow of the 
beach, the sand hill broke the wind and made it 
quite lee ; he started to fill and light his pipe. Just 
as he was going to apply the lighted match, he lieard 
a loud, dismal groan and a huge, black object ap- 
peared on the top of the sand hill, towards the shore, 
and was coming down the hillside directly for him, 
Dropphig match and pipe he started on the keen run 
for the town, the object coming after him at full 
speed and occasionally uttering its dismal groan. 
Fear increased John's speed, but occasionally glanc- 
ing backwards could see that the object was gaining 
upon him. He felt that his strength was leaving 
him, and feeling in his pocket for his jack knife, de- 
termined to fight to the last. Taking it from his 
pocket, he turned one more look backward, when 
he accidently stumbled, and fell on the frozen sand. 
The object, with a fearful groan, came rushing on ; 
John determined, though trembling with fear, to pre- 
pare for the struggle that he thought would surely 
come. However, the object passed him by close to 
his side, not offering to make an attack and going 
some fifty feet further on, stopped in a bunch of 
beach plum bushes. He now assumed the aggressive, 
and going to the bushes found he had been chased 
by an empty water barrel. The heavy north-west 
wind was blowing it over the hard frozen sand and the 



189 

noise was caused by the wind blowing in at the bung- 
hole. Putting it on his shoulder he brought it to 
town and for a long time would relate his adventure 
and produce the barrel for proof. 

A KNO^YING HORSE. 

A citizen of this place had a white horse that had 
been for a long time in his service. The owner was 
never tired of telling, when he could find listeners, 
of the wonderful actions and intelligence of the ani- 
mal. One day the horse was taken to the black- 
smith's shop to be shod. After the work was done 
the owner said to several persons who were in the 
shop at the time, and to whom he had been telling 
the good qualities and actions of the animal: "Gen- 
tlemen, to show you how much that horse knows I 
will, by word only, make him leave the shop and 
place himself in the shafts of my wagon." Leaving 
the horse in the shop the owner went out and called, 
" White}^ come, get into place ; we will go for our 
dinner." The horse never moved ; the owner repeat- 
ed the call several times, but still the horse refused 
to move. The owner was much vexed, as the by- 
standers began laughing, when the blacksmith came 
to the owner's relief with the remark that if the shoe- 
ing was paid for the horse would go, as undoubtedly 
the animal did not want to go away in debt. Out 
came the owner's pocket-book and the bill was paid, 
after which, at the first call, old Whitey took his 



190 

place when told. The blacksmith saying to the ow- 
ner that it was a remarkable horse indeed, and it 
would be a benefit to him if there were more horses 
that knew enough not to run their masters in debt. 
davie's dream. 
Old Davie was one the old-time characters who 
could tell a good story and would often draw largiy 
on his imagination. If any one offended him ha was 
sure to come under a tongue lashing from Davie. It 
so happened that there were two men that Davie 
iiad a pecular dislike for, and he never let slip by a 
chance to annoy them. One morning, when going 
to his work, he went in a store where there was quite 
a crowd assembled, and wishing them good morning 
said, ''Boys, I had a queer dream last night, I 
dreamed that I had died and gone to that place 
where about everybody says I will go when I die. 
The Old Nick himself said he had been expecting 
me for some time and that I was welcome. " Now 
Davie, we always manage here to have things go 
along peaceably, but if Sam. S. and Nat. H. get in 
here, and I know they are coming, there will be no 
more peace here. I put you in door-keeper and be 
sure they don't come in." "I took my stand at the 
door, and soon I saw them coming. As they attempt- 
ed to pass me I began to kick at them and tell them 
to go away. I had just given a smart kick to old 
Sam. S., when he roared out, "what in the devil are 



191 

you doing ? '' so loud that it waked me up and I found 
I had kicked my Jack, who was sleeping with me, out 
of bed on to the floor. Those two fellows, if they 
don't go there when the time comes, at least they 
ought too." 

LOSS OF WHALING BRIG ARDENT. 

The whaling brig Ardent sailed from this port for 
a cruise off the Western Islands. She was manned 
by the following persons, most of whom were citizens 
of this place: captain, Samuel Soper ; mate, Hicks 
Snialley ; crew, John Savage, Stephen Cashiu, Thomas 
Stull, Jonah Gross, Amos Nickerson, Thomas K. 
Hudson, Solomon Crowell, Philip Rich, Cyrenius 
Siually, Franklin Cartright, Elisha Hopkins of 
Rhode Island; John Austin of Boston. They met 
with good success, and were on their passage home, 
when they encountered a severe hurricane on Sep- 
tember 28tli, 1823, which hove the vessel down and 
washed off Cashin, Gross and Nickerson. The 
masts were carried away close to the deck, then the 
vessel righted, but was full of water, only a small 
portion of the after part being out of water, and 
there was where the remainder of the crew took re- 
fuge. The cargo of oil barely keeping this part from 
being submerged, when the sea was rough it would 
break over it. Attempts were made to get into the 
cabin for provisions and water, but proved futile. 
Occasional rain squalls gave them, by wringing out 



192 

their clothes, a few drops of brackish water, and 
for food all they subsisted on was a few barnacles 
and occasionall}' a small hsh was caught swimming 
around, being attracted by the wreck. One after 
another died from starvation and exposure and drop- 
ped off the wreck. After twenty-six days of un- 
told suffering there were only five left, captain, mate, 
Hudson, Rich and Cy renins Smally. The British 
packet Lord Sudmouth, bound for Falmouth, Eng- 
land, sighted the wreck and took off the sufferers, 
who could not have lived but a sliort time longer. 
Every thing was done for the comfort of the wreck- 
ed men, but the mate. Hicks Smalley, died shortly 
after they were taken from tlie wreck and the lives 
(^f the remaining four were barely saved. All of 
tlie crew are now dead; tlie hist survivor was the 
late Philip Rich, who died at an advanced age. He 
very rarely alluded to the circumstance and was not 
disposed to give many of the details of the disaster. 
It was always supposed that the last survivor would 
tell the story, but Mr. Rich passed away without 
relating it. A granddaughter, now residing in Mid- 
dleboro, has for a middle name the name of the ship 
that rescued the survivors. 



NOTEWORTHY CATCHES OF FISH. 

November 29th, 1870, a school of black fish was 
driven ashore in Well fleet harbor, some of which 
were upwards of twenty feet in length, and made 
over four barrels of oil each. There were seven 
hundred and sixty-seven fish in the school, yielding 
one thousand twenty barrels of oil in all. These 
fish were bought by Wellfleet and Provincetown 
parties, and over two hundred men and boys were 
employed in saving the oil. 

During the month of December, 1884, there were 
taken in Cape Cod Bay, over two thousand black 
fish by boats from Provincetown, Truro and Well- 
fleet. This is the largest catch ever known to have 
been taken, and but very few fish of that kind have 
been seen in these waters since. 

The largest whale ever known to have been cap- 
tured Oil this coast was taken in South Channel, 
south-east of Chatham, on May 11th, 1843, by the 
little, pink-stern schooner Cordelia, of Province- 
town, Capt. Ebenezer Cook, and a crew of Province- 
town men. This whale was of the right whale 
species, and was estimated that it would have made 



194 
nearly three hundred barrels of oil, and about one 
and a half tons of bone. The little craft not having 
the facilities for handling the monster, saved only 
about one hundred and twenty-five barrels of the 
oil and three hundred pounds of the bone, which 
was over fourteen feet in length. The little craft 
was then full, hold and deck. Signals were made 
to a passing vessel, but no notice was taken, so the 
rest of the whale was abandoned. The value of 
the fish was over 112,000. 

Schooner Willie A. McKay, Capt. Angus McKay, 
of Provincetown, in the year 1882, fitted for the 
Grand Banks and was absent three months, bringing 
in the largest fare of cod-fish ever brought to this 
port. After the fish were dried and ready for the 
market, they weighed 4,062 quintals and sold for a 
little over -122,000. Capt. McKay has always made 
successful voyages, and in 1889, known as the scarce 
year, brought in nearly a full fare of fish, — the only 
one in the place. 



TABLE OF DATES. 

First visit of Europeans, Thorwald and 

Icelandic Viking, 
Second visit of Europeans, Thorbin Karlsfeni, 
Visited by Cortereal, a French navigator. 
Visited by French Fishermen, 1597 — 

Bartholomew Gosnold landed, 
John Smith, from Virginia, 
Landing of the Pilgrims, Nov. 11, 

Gov. Bradford's wife, Mary, drowned from 

the Mayflower, Dec. 10, 

Peregrine White born on board the May- 
flower, Dec. 16, 
Peregrine White died in Marshfield, July 20, 
First settlement, about 

First recorded birth, Ephraim Doane, April 1, 
Was made a precinct under Truro, June 17, 
The Kings Commissioners defenitely lo- 
cated the boundary line, Sept. 24, 
Was made a town, the line being the eastern 
boundary, and called Provincetown, 

June 14, 



1004 
1007 
1501 
1601 
1602 
1614 
1620 

1620 

1620 
1704 
1680 
1696 
1714 

1714 



1727 



196 
Law passed fixing January for town-meet- 
ings, Oct. 3d, 1730 
Oldest tombstone record, June 10, 1724 
First place of worship built, 17(53 

First Free Mason building was built, 1795 

Light House at Highland, Truro, first lighted, 1797 

Memorable gale ; three East Lidia ships 

Volusia, Ulysses, and Brutus, were 
wrecked, Feb. 22, 1802 

Small pox raged ; many deaths took place, 

winter of 1800 -- 1801 

Rev. Samuel Parker, for many years appoint- 
ed by the government as minister, 
died April 11, 1811 

Act passed establishing the M. E. Church, 

June 22, 1811 
Bridge built across Race Run, Hatch's Harbor, 1839 
Long Point made a separate school district, 1832 
Race Point made a school district, 1835 

First building built on Long Point, November, 1818 
Hon. N. E. Atwood moved from Long Point 

to town, December, 1856 

Lighthouse on Race Point built, 1816 

Lighthouse on Long Point built, 1826 

Lighthouse on Wood End built, 1872 

Ship Warren wrecked, a part of the crew 

saved, December, 1832 

Equitable Insurance Co, incorporated, 1845 



197 

I. O. of O. F. instituted, Nov. 21, 1845 

Marine Railway at Central Wharf built, 1848 

Abundance of mackeral caught, known as 

the Chatham Years, 1848 — 1849 

First bridge across East Harbor built, 1854 

Destroyed by a gale and ice, 1856 

Rebuilt, " 1857 

Discontinued and solid road built, 1877 

Sudden squall, with snow, twenty-one ves- 
sels wrecked in this vicinity, Dec. 3d, 1853 
Severe gale known as the October Gale, 
seven vessels and fifty-seven persons 
lost from Truro on George's Bank. 

Oct. 2d-3d, 1841 
Severe gale in the Bay St. Lawrence, many 
vessels lost from here and other places 
on the Cape, Oct. 3d-4th, 1851 

Old Town Hall built, 1853 

Burned down, Feb. 16th, 1877 

New Town Hall completed, Aug. 25th, 1886 

English Steamship Calendonia came ashore 

near Race Point, Jan. 1st, 1863 

Mason & Slidell Gale, so called, from their 
being on board English Steamer Rinaldo 
and leaving port that day, Jan. 1st, 1862 

Great catch of mackerel, known as the 

Boon Island Year, 1864 

Railroad opened for traffic, July 22nd, 1873 



198 
President Grant's visit, Aug. 28th, 1874 

Ex. President Grover Cleveland visited 

here, August, 1889 

Provincetovvn Bank incorporated, March 28th, 1854 
Seaman's Savings Bank incorporated, 

April 14th, 1850 
Marine and Fire Insurance Co. incorporat- 
ed, April 13th, 1854 
Union Marine Railway built, 1851 
Bradford street built, 1873 
Severe gale and tidal wave, ship Nina came 
ashore and damaged the Post Office, 

October, 1871 
Wreck of ship Peruvian, from Singapore 

for Boston, Dec. 26th, 1872 

U. S. Life Saving Stations manned, Jan. 2lst, 1873 
Wreck of Italian bark Giovanni, thirteen 

lives lost, only one man saved, March 4th, 1875 
Adams's Hall burned, March, 1875 

New Masonic Hall built, 1870 

Schooner Annie Freeman, Capt. Sylvester 
D. Rich, lost on a voyage from Prince 
Edward's Island, ten lives lost, Dec. 12th, 1872 
Seven hundred and sixty -seven black-iish, . 
making one thousand and twenty 
barrels of oil, taken, Dec. 5th, 1870 

Over two thousand black-fish taken during 



199 

the month of December, in Cape Cod 
Bay, 1884 

Town liglited with street lamps, April 12th, 1884 
Goverment Dike built at East Harbor, 1868 — 1869 
Seaman's Aid Society established, April 13th, 1882 
Fireman's Insurance Co. organized, Jan. 4th, 1873 
High and Grammar school building built, 1880 

School-house on Long Point built, 1846 

Public Library building built, 1874 

Wreck of schooner Sarah J. Fort, part of 

the crew saved by volunteers, April, 1879 

Loss of Captain David H. Atkins, Frank 
Mayo, Elisha Taylor, crew of Life Sav- 
ing Station at Peaked Hills, Nov. 30th, 1880 
High Head Life Saving Station built, 1883 

Sidewalk laid, 1838 

First wharf or pier of any kind built, about 1835 



BUSINESS DIRECTORY. 

AETISTS. 

William M. Smith, photographer, three doors west 
Central House : Xickersoii Photograph Rooms, L 
Rosenthal, manager, next to Post Office ; Lewis H. 
Baker, ferrotypist, Gifford Block ; Mamie Xiokerson, 
teacher of oil painting, opposite Gifford Block : 
Leah Mathescn, decorative work, Conant Street ; 
Mrs. Ada H. Miller, teacher and artist in oil paint- 
ing. 11 Winthrop St.; Mrs. Cora Fuller, decorative ar- 
tist, West's Block. 

BARBERS. 

Vincent F. Silva. Head Steamboat Wharf; John 
Lucas,, corner Carvet and Commercial Street : 
Manuel J. Davis, Commercial St., near First Na- 
tional Bank: John W. Myrick, SmalFs Building, 
near Post Office : James Henderson, Commercial St.^ 
east R. R. Crossing ; John Francis, Commercial St., 
nearly opposite Public Library. 

(ALKERS. 

John W. B'iatty, Good Templar Street ; Atwood 
Mott. Union Marine Railway. 

BLACKSMITHS. 

J. H. Livermore, Union Wharf; Wrn. H. Herbolt 
Commercial St., Head Central Wharf; Amasa 



•201 
Taylor, R. R. Wharf, rear Post Office; Philauder 
Crocker. Hilliard's Wharf: W.C. Snow. S. G. Cook's 
Wharf. 

rHXTORS, PHTSI1IA5S 1>D SURtEOXS, 

E. C. Peck. Commercial St., foot of Carver; 
Adiu H. Newton, Commercial, between Gosnold St.. 
Masonic Place ; William E. Moore, corner Gosnold 
and Commercial St. : Rich'd C. Dailey, Smith's Block, 
Custom House Building : W. S. Birge, corner of 
Bradford and Prince St. : Mrs. W. S. Birge, M. D., 
office, corner Bradford and Prince St. 

HOrSE tARPEXTERS JLXD JOINERS, 

Willis Higgins, 9 Court St. ,• Richard J. Days, Wash- 
ington Ave. : Victor J. Leonard, Cudworth St. : 
James Cobb. Bradford St., rear of Town Hall ; By- 
ley Lyford, 6 Cook St. : Solomon D. Xickerson, Com- 
mercial St., West End : Josiah Snow, at the Pilgrim 
House ; C. H. Hoi way, 211 Commercial St. : Geo C. 
Hill, corner Johnson and Bradford Sts. : 

SHIP CIRPEXTERS AXD SPAR MAKERS. 

George W. Standish. Commercial St., near R. R. 
Wharf; John G. Whitcorab, Railroad Wharf: Ezra 
Ewell, Central Wharf: Nathaniel Hopkins, Union 
Wharf and Marine Railway. 

COXTRAiTORS AXD BllLDIXti MOVERS. 

Alex. Gayland »S: Sons, near Post Office. 

TIBUL-IR WELLS A>"D DBITEX PI MPS, 

Charles W. Burkett. Standish Street. 



202 

HOTELS AXD BOAKI)IN(i HOI SES. 

Gifford's Summer Hotel, corner Carver and Brad- 
ford Sts. ; Pilgrim House, off Commercial, near Free- 
man St. ; Central House, 234 Commercial, near (tos- 
nold St. ; Atlantic House, Masonic Place ; Seaside 
Cottage, Mrs. E. C. Mayo, for summer visitors only,' 
493 Commercial St. ; Chapman House, opposite 
Central House ; Atkins Hcnise, East End ; Ellen F. 
Atkins, Proprietor. 

WAT( H-MAKEKS AM» .IE1VELLEKS. 

A. I^ouis Putman, Masonic Block ; W. C. Healey, 
Small's P>lock, coi'uer (commercial and (xosnold St. 

nun, (KJAItS. (<)NFE( TIO.NEin. 

Charles S. Hopkins, 129 (Commercial St., near 
Pleasant ; E. J. Kilhurn, corner (^ourt and (commer- 
cial Sts. ; Walter Welch, Commercial St., foot of 
Carver ; F. N. Smith, (yommercial St., next to Cen- 
tral House : Joseph P. Martin, 263 Commercial St. : 
Matthias Morris, 3d door east of tlie Post (JfHce ; 
Ed. S. Berry, (-ommercial St., head of Conwell's 
Wharf; Timothy T. (^hase, next building to I^urchs 
C'lothing Store ; James P. Holmes, next to Mason- 
ic Block ; S. S. Gross Commercial, opposite (rood 
Templar St. 

ItAKEHS. PIES, ( AKES, KKEAI), BEANS, EK . 

Joshua T. Small, SmalFs lilock, corner Commer- 
cial and Gosnold Sts. ; George Ellis, Commercial St. 
West End. 



203 

liRlMKKS. 

J. Brown, corner Commercial and Conant St. : F. 
(\ Miller, 76 Commercial St. ; George O. Knowles. 
Knowles's Wharf, foot Pearl St.: John D. Hilliard, 
Hiiliard's Wharf, near Freeman St. : R. S. Laven- 
der, Commercial, foot Cornell St. : Moses S. Turner, 
5 Cornell St. : Union Fish Co., Railroad Wharf: Ira 
K. Small, -201 Commercial St.: John Adams, 202 
Commercial St. : T. W. Sparks, 285 Commercial St., 
head Railroad Wharf. : James E. Rich, ITS (\-)mmer- 
cial St. : W. E. Rogers, 175 Commercial St. ; Frank 
Ct. Cook. Bradford, corner Franklin St. ; Joseph 
l*erry, Jr., Bradford, corner Franklin St. : Mrs. R. 
W. Loring, 2 Atkins St., opposite No. 1 Engine 
Honse : Jeremiah A. Rich. Freestone ^Market. 

MtVTS. POILTKY. PROVISIONS. 

W. C. Dearborn, at T. W. Spark's Store: John 
Adams, 202 Commercial St. : F. E. Hill, Freestone 
market : James E. Rich, 178 Commercial St., :M. S. 
Turner, 5 Cornell St. : J Brown, corner Conant and 
Commercial St. 

RETAIL nE\l.ERS I> FRESH KISH. ( l.AMS. LOBSTERS, ETl . 

A. T. Powe, U."* Commercial St. : J*>hn Martin, 
head of Kn»nvles"s wharf : M. Bradshaw, 282 Com- 
mercial St., near Railroad Crossing. 

HACKS, KARt;ES, PLEASURE (ARRIAtiES. 

Samuel Knowles, opposite First National Bank ; 
11. J. Snow, (^the Deacon), Lancy's, corner Commer- 



204 

cial St. ; Newell C. Brooks, Lancy's, corner Commer- 
cial St. ; R. E. Mayo, corner Montello and Commer- 
cial St. ; Charles L. Young, Adams's Block ; Thomas 
Welch, Commercial St., foot of Carver. 

TEAMSTERS AXI) JOBBERS. 

Barnett Brothers, James H. R. Frank, Union 
Wharf; James Campbell, James E. Rich's store; 
Charles L. Young, Adams's Block; R. E. Mayo, cor- 
ner Montello and Commercial St. ; Newell C. Brooks, 
Lancy's, corner Commercial St. ; Thomas Welch, 
Commercial St., foot of Carver. 

VESSEL FITTERS AXD WHOLESALE DEALERS IN FISH. 

William Matheson, head of Steamboat Wharf ; 
Joseph Manta, 180 Commercial St., first wliarf west 
of Steamboat Wharf; John D. Hilliard, Hilliard's 
Wharf; Union Fish Co., Railroad Wharf; Philip A. 
Whorf, Commercial St., East End ; H. &; S. Cook & 
Co., 438 Commercial St. ; David Conwell & Sons, 
Con well's Wharf, east of Pearl St. 

HOUSE, SHIP AND SIGN PAINTERS. 

Thomas W. Dyer, 97 Commercial St. ; Benj. H. 
Dyer, 172 Commercial St. ; Joseph W. Cook, rear 
344 Commercial St. ; D. W. Snow, Decorative Artist 
and Letterer, 274 Commercial St. 

MANUFACTURES AND DEALERS IN OIL. 

Myrick C. Atwood, (successor to N. E. Atwood,) 
Pure Medicinal Cod Liver Oil, 70 Commercial St. ; 
Caleb Cook, manufacturer of fine Lubricating Watch 



.205 
Oils ; works, on Miller Hill, Bradford St.; George O. 
Knowles, wholesale dealer and importer of Sperm, 
Whale, Cod and other Oils, 350 Commercial St. ; also 
agent and fitter for whaling vessels. 

LArNDRY. 

Newton P. West, 271 Commercial Street. 

FIRNITIRE DEALER. 

Joseph A. West, 248 Commercial St. 

IXSl RAM'E AGENT. 

Edward N. Paine ; office, J. and L. N. Paine's 
vstore. Commercial St. 

PAPER HAX«ERS. 

J. Harvey Dearborn, 224 Commercial St. ; A. E. 
Dearbbrn, dealer in wall paper, 224 Commercial St., 

SAIL AND TENT MAKERS. 

Artenuis P. Hannnm, Union Wharf; F. A. Paine, 
Central Wharf; Cook Brothers, Knowles's Wharf; 
Charles H. Dyer, S. G. Cook's Wharf; George W. 
Pettis, Hilliard's Wharf; George H. Lewis, H. & S. 
Cook & Co.'s Wharf. 

BOAT BUILDER. 

W. W. Smith, 142 Commercial St., 

APOTHECARIES AND DRlCiGISTS. 

John D. Adams, corner Gosnold and Commercial 
St. ; Frederick A. H. Gifford, Gifford's Block. 

MILLINERY AND FANCY GOODS. 

Mamie and Jessie Matheson, head Steamboat 
Wharf; William A. Smith, 232 Commercial St. ; 



•20(J 
Mis!s Lucy Paiiie, opposite Town Hall. 

<AKPETS. ( K(HKEKY, (iLASSWARE. ORIiANS. MISK. ET( . 

Obadiali Snow, opposite Town Hall. 

DRY <aMH>S. 

Hezekiah P. Hughes, Masonic Block; Samuel J. 
Ricli, Central Block, near Railroad (^rossing ; Ben- 
jamin T. Crocker, 70 and 156 Commercial St.; Mi-s. 
J. S. Hatcli, Commercial St., Kiley's Block. 

( EOTHIXC;, BOOTS. SHOES, (iEXTS FIRMSHIX; <;<KH)S. 

I). A. Matheson, 304 (Commercial St. ; John L. 
Rich, 19H Commercial St.; J. M Buicdi, 2(18 Com- 
mercial St. ; Silas C. .Mott, 319 ('ommei-cial St. 

nER( HA.NT TAILORS. 

Albert Fuller, 247 Connnercial St. ; A. F. Sn)all, 
801 Commercial St. ; I). A. Smith, opposite Town 
Hall. 

K(M)T AND SHOE DEALER. 

R. E. Mayo, 141 Commercial St., coi-iicr Montello. 

STOVES AND TIN WARE. 

William B. Bangs, 190 Connnercial St. ; Herbert 
Engles, 306 Commercial St. ; 

WATER BOATS. 

William Atkins ; office, Central Wliai'f Store : 
Xeno])hon Rich : office, R. S. Lavender's Store. 

H MBER DEALERS. 

Lewis & Browi], Commercial St. opposite Masonic 
Hall ; (xeorge Allen, Atwood's Wharf. 



207 

MASON AND PLASTEKER. 

Jame^ Fuller vS: Sou, head of Central Wharf. 

AKTIONEEHS. 

Heiiian S. Cook; oflfice, 844 Coiuinercial St.; 
Joseph V. .lohnsoii ; office. Masonic Place; H. A. 
Jeiniino-s; office, 2 Pilgrim House Court. 

DEMISTS. 

William P. Hudson Ov: Sou ; dental rooms, 231 
Commercial St., 2nd door west from the Central 
House ; A. F. ConwelL D. D. S. : rooms, 8 Pearl St. 

OlSTEKS SERVED IX EVERY STYLE. 

Mrs. Mary Young, opposite Town Hall liuilding. 

D. S. ( ARLOW X ((►. 

Keep a large stock of Fancy Articles, Wall Paper, 
Tin and Hardware, (^itlery, etc., 810 (V)mmercial St. 
JONATHAN HICGINS. 

Attorney and counsellor at law; office, opposite 
Town Hail Building; in Provincetown Thursdays 
P. M. and Fridays A. M. 

MUSIC. 

Mrs. Hannah C. Buck, teacher, 171 Commercial 
St.; Mrs. Sadie N. Johnson, teacher. Masonic Place ; 
Geo. C. Hill, Jr., leader HilFs Orchestra, teaches 
violin; office, corner Ih^adford and Johnson St.; 
Puritan Band, Town Hall. 

JOSEPH WHITCOMB. 

Florist and Undertaker, first building west Rail- 
road Crossing on Commercial St. 



208 

B. ROLLINGS. 

Agent for the Wheeler and Wilson Sewing Ma- 
chine ; office, Bradford St., between Montello and 
Con ant Sts. 

MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. 

Geo. F. Johnson, agent for Everett & Harvard 
Piano Co. ; office, Masonic Place. 

MARBLE WORKS. 

Reuben Nickerson, Monumental Sculptor and 
dealer in Marble and Granite, oj^jposite First National 
Bank. 



CAPE COD COIVIIVIERCIAL TRAVELLERS. 



Our ho//s tritli then' (jrlpii. 
Who o)t the (Jape make ihe'ir trips, 
A}i(l tell ijon true talei< 
When tJieif are mak'oKj their Kales. 



uvAmuv: m. ( akpemek. 

Keiiret^ents F. natclu'lder. dealer in Fresh Meats and I'rovisious, 55 
Blaekstone St., lioston. .Mass. 

JOSEPH F. B.4KK0N. 

Keiiresents Frank*). Scjuire vK: Co., dealers in Meet. I'ork. Lard. Hams 
et(t.. (iO lilackstune St., Boston, Mass. 

GEORGE H. SYLVESTEK. 

Reiiresents .lojin F. Xickerson. Wholesale (Jrocer. aiul dealer in Flour, 
Produce and Provisions. 

F. L. HAXDY. 

Kepresents M. S. Ayers & Co., wholesale dealers in Flour, I'roduce and 
Provisions, 18!) State and 8(i Central St., Boston, Mass. 

WARKEX FIELDING. 

Represents J. C. Frye ».K: Co., wholesale dealers in Flour, Produce, Pro- 
visions, etc., 29 Coumiercial St., Boston, Mass. 

W. N. STETSON. 

Represents I. W. Munroe &|Co., Wholesale (Irocers and stealers in Flour, 
73 Commercial St., Boston, Mass. 

GEORGE A. JERAULD. 

Represents Isaac Locke & Co., wholesale and commission dealer in 
F'ruits and Produce, Faneuil Hall Market, Boston, Mass. 



210 

V. E. ROGERS. 

Represents Charles H. Orclway, wholesaler of all kinds ot Fruit and 
Country Produce, 191 Arlington Ave., Boston, Mass. 

AL. S. BACKl S. 

Represents F. P. AVashl)urn, Crackers and Pilot Bread, P.roc'kton, Mass. 

GEORGE WM. NICKERSON. 

Wholesale Dealer in Confectionery, Welltleet, Mass. 

F. y\. BRYANT. 
Manufacturer of Laundry Soaps and 15-2 Washin<i Powder, corner Wa- 
ter and Mi<ldle St., New Bedford, jNIass. 

GEORGE W. BERRY. 
Wholesale dealer in Cif;ars, Brewster, Mass. 

JOSIAH F. KXOWLES. 
Represents Batchelder & Lincoln, jobbers in Boots. Shoes and Rubbers 
% Federal St., Boston. Mass. 

FRANK E. SEARLL. 
Represents Green, Anthony & Co., wholesale dealers in B«.ots, Shoes »\: 
Rubbers, 23 Pine and 2 Harkness Court, Providence, R. I. 

DAVI1> LOVE. 
Represents Parker, Holmes & Co., dealers aiid jol>l»ers in Boots, Shoe< 
and Rubbers, 141 Federal St., Boston, Mass. 

GEORGE W. POPE. 
Represents New En<rland <)r};an Co., 12t>9 ^^ ashin^ton St., B(»ston. Mass. 

J. S. CLARK. 
Represents Jordan, Marsh & Co., importers aiul jobbers of I>ry (ioods. 
Shawls, Cloaks, etc., 450 Washinjiton, .'J8 Avon Sts., Boston, Mass, 

H. L. LAMBERT. 
Represents Walker, Sawyer, Stetson & Ci^i., imi»orters and jobbers of 
Hosiery, Gloves, Laces, TTnderwear, etc., 83 Lincfdn St., Itoston, Mass. 

W. H. MANSFIELO. 

Represents Farley, Harvey c^- Co., importers and joblters of J)ry Goods, 
Hi to G7 Chauncy St., and oit, 41 and 43 Bedford St., ISoston, Mass. 

W. L. GOILD. 

Represents Brown, Durrell &: Co., importers and manufacturers of Hos- 
iery, Handkerchiefs, Underwear, etc., corner Kingston and Essex Sts., 
Boston, Mass. 



I 



211 

>V. S. HAYNES. Jr. 

Itoi.re.ents Clatlin, Larral)ee .V Co., importers au.l .iohl.ers ..t Hosiery. 
Cloves ami lu»U'r\vtar, >i.s Lincoln St.. F.o<ton. Mass. 

H. L. SOI THE U. 
Kepresents ('..leman. .Mea.l v\; To., <lealersan<l importers ot Small War.-. 
Fanry (Joods. Hosiery, etc. I'l Chauncy St.. Boston. Mass. 

WILLIS r. IIAKOY. 
Rei.resfnts Non-ross. Mellen v^" <o.. i.ui.orters ot rUii.a Ware. Croek- 
vvy. <;ia^s and I'late.l Ware. Lamps. 14 to Jo Menhants- IJow. l^.ston. 
Mass. At stoH'. Momlays. 

E. H. 3LV(IM>SAL». 
IToprictor of tin- llarvanl Extract Co. The tiuest tlavored. purest .nihil- 
ity an.l stron-est Kxtra.ts in the market. Camlm(l,i:ep<.rt. Mass. 

W. S. ALLEN. 
Itepresent- 1). A. Sncll. dealer in I'lain and Fancy Crackers. 1 WiUian. 

St rner Water St.. New IJedford. .Mass. 

A. P. YOr><iMA>. 
Keprevents W. H. ilnpman \- Co.. importers an.l manula.turers of tine 
<Mrpetin-s. Straw Mattinirs. et... 2- Be.lf-.r.l St.. li..st..n. Mass. 

JOHN H. (OMEY. 
Represents Cnn.ner. .J.mes .V C.... €h»thiers an<l Taih.rs Trimminj;s. 
s:? an.l s.-, Sunnncr an.l IJ an.l 14 Kin-ston St.. Hoston. Mass. 

\\. S. GAYLORIL 
F.epre.<ents Nonatn.k Silk Co., 18 Summer St., lioston M:uss. 

WALTER r. (iRAST. 
FenresentsE .^- F. Kin- .V: C.... manufa.-turers an.l .lealers in Faints. 
Oils and Varnishes. 2.; and 27 India Street, corner Milk. F.oston. Mass. 

{. E. ("ARRITH. 
Represents C. .1. Carrutl. ^ <o.. n.u.nfacturcrs ^nl jol.hers of Fine 
riixars, Toha.-.-. Fipes. etc., 4.; Hanover St.. Hoston. Mass. 

M. E. ARNOLIK 
Represents Sealmrv .'v" .I..hnso«. nmnufacturers of Fharmacopa-ia. 
Antiseptic Dressings, etc.. New York an.l London. 

FR.iNK E. MAYO. 
Fenresents Hanu'. St,.d.lar.l & Kendall, importers an.l manufacturers 
./ c!uS^! Fishin. Ta,:kle, Ka^e Rail an.l Athletic Ooo.ls. .74 Wash,n.t..n 
St.. Ronton. Mass. 



212 



ERRATA. 

Page 52, bottom lines, Edward Clark, slioiild l>e 
Edward Clark lUirt. 

Page 62, line 13, Thomas Lome, should be Thom- 
as Lowe. 



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